Quote:
Originally Posted by 31 Woody
UPDATE: I didn’t think it was possible, but the master cutoff switch is allowing a tiny bit of voltage through. 0.01-0.03 volts. I have the same type cutoff that they put on the back of race cars, guess I need something better. Now on to the second problem—guess I have to pull the dash apart and check wires for bare spots or something. I do have a second pop-out switch—I figured since the car won’t start when off and it turns the car off when I push it in it was good. Thoughts?
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Looking for (or reading with a meter) a short of the red wire to ground is a good idea.
The only way to know for sure if the switch is good or bad is to test it with an ohmmeter out of the car.
The original switches are supposed to break the connection to the points and ground the points only (not the red feed wire) when you push the switch button in. But with time, age, and use, things can get messed up inside and you can end up with the connection to the points opening up correctly (engine stops) but the red feed wire grounding out (which is not right, and is consistent with your symptoms).
HTH.