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Old 09-27-2020, 07:36 PM   #77
shew01
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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Default Re: Car Will Not Start--No Apparent Spark

Quote:
Originally Posted by GRutter View Post
Shew -
I think I may understand what you are doing incorrectly that may be adding to everyone's confusion. In post 58, you picture reading voltage ACROSS the fuseholder. Your voltage measurements must always be taken to GROUND.

So for example, when you reported that you had voltage on both sides of the fuse holder with the fuse OPEN and Pop-Out Ignition ON, everyone responded that it wasn't possible.... that something is very wrong.

Please try the following and report your findings back for each of the following steps:

Take the RED (Positive) lead of your meter, and find a good place to connect it to chassis GROUND, and LEAVE IT THERE. Take all meter readings this way.
GRutter,

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR POSTING!!!!
I think I found it. I have no formal training nor much experience in debugging electrical issues, especially on a 6 volt car, and positive ground has always "messed with my mind."

In all of my earlier posts, I was always starting with the black probe on the negative battery cable that attaches to the starter or the radiator side of the fuse holder (simply because both of them were easy to connect the probe alligator clip to with a sure connection, and I didn't realize that would impact the measurements). When I measured as you suggested, I found that one of the junction box studs did not have power. I put a temporary jumper between the two studs, and the horn started working, the lights started working, and the car actually started. YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!

Apparently, the ammeter was on its way to failure and was intermittent, and it eventually permanently failed during the testing of this ordeal. (I started a thread about ammeters awhile back, wondering if my ammeter was working correctly.)

The (thin) wire jumper that I used across the junction box is a temporary fix just to get the car started. I need to find another ammeter (which is another can of worms because new ammeters reportedly do not work well).

THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP AND FOR HAVING PATIENCE WITH ME. This has definitely been yet another Model A learning experience for me.

Questions:

1. Is it safe to drive the car with a jumper across the junction box studs until I can locate a replacement ammeter?

2. If it is safe to run a temporary jumper, what gauge wire should I use for the jumper.
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