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BRENT in 10-uh-C · 01-07-2022, 01:59 PM

Everyone has their own different method of 'cooking', ...so I am trying to stay out of the kitchen however I do think there are some comments that are maybe not be totally factual in today's technological world of paint.

Just remember, that products in the paint world are ever-evolving. Something that was the hot ticket a year or two ago is very possible to be outdated technology today. I have factory reps in here ever 90 days or less showing me stuff and telling me stuff that was new just a few years ago that is now obsolete. Let me offer my opinion by saying that if you find yourself needing a darker primer to achieve a uniform color coating, then that generally tells me the quality of the finish-coat needs to be changed as a paint that is that translucent generally does not have enough pigments -or a good quality pigments in them.

As far as roll-on primers, we have been monitoring this for several years however the issue right now is the lack of adhesion of heavy mil thickness applications. I think the technology is coming however right now there is an adhesion problem. Most applications where that product is used does not need to have a high-build filling characteristic, and is more about an adhesion promotor or what is called a surfacer.

Based on Russell's pictures, at this time of writing my choice of primer would be the Evercoat Optex SuperBuild 4:1 primer which is a hybrid epoxy primer with an extreme amount of filling qualities, -and it is DTM. Also, it sprays and dries in a few hours in an opaque pink color so you can tell when it has fully cured, ...then it sands to a light gray/whiteish color that makes it very easy to know what areas have been sanded and what has not. Even though it is an epoxy, it does sand and feathers out very nicely which is typically uncharacteristic for a regular epoxy. We block-sand this primer to 240 grit, and then follow up with a polyester hybrid surfacer called Finishsand. The benefit with this primer is it is also DTM and easily block-sands to 400 grit. Therefore if you have sanded thru the SuperBuild, you can use the Finishsand directly onto the bare metal. You can also use Evergold Putty over the top of either primer if you have a pinhole or an imperfection show up.

Both of these primer products have taken away the need for a sealer to be applied before spraying the finish-coat, ...and quite frankly since most companies have gone away from offering a sandable sealer, it doesn't make much sense to block-sand to 400 grit and then spray a sealer that just reintroduces a layer of orange peel for the finish-coat to be sprayed onto.

Again, everyone has their own preferred method of cooking materials they want to use so I am not saying my recommendations are the best, but you must also remember that most products are geared for the collision industry and not the restoration industry.

01-07-2022, 01:59 PM	#17
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,535	Re: Primer paint Everyone has their own different method of 'cooking', ...so I am trying to stay out of the kitchen however I do think there are some comments that are maybe not be totally factual in today's technological world of paint. Just remember, that products in the paint world are ever-evolving. Something that was the hot ticket a year or two ago is very possible to be outdated technology today. I have factory reps in here ever 90 days or less showing me stuff and telling me stuff that was new just a few years ago that is now obsolete. Let me offer my opinion by saying that if you find yourself needing a darker primer to achieve a uniform color coating, then that generally tells me the quality of the finish-coat needs to be changed as a paint that is that translucent generally does not have enough pigments -or a good quality pigments in them. As far as roll-on primers, we have been monitoring this for several years however the issue right now is the lack of adhesion of heavy mil thickness applications. I think the technology is coming however right now there is an adhesion problem. Most applications where that product is used does not need to have a high-build filling characteristic, and is more about an adhesion promotor or what is called a surfacer. Based on Russell's pictures, at this time of writing my choice of primer would be the Evercoat Optex SuperBuild 4:1 primer which is a hybrid epoxy primer with an extreme amount of filling qualities, -and it is DTM. Also, it sprays and dries in a few hours in an opaque pink color so you can tell when it has fully cured, ...then it sands to a light gray/whiteish color that makes it very easy to know what areas have been sanded and what has not. Even though it is an epoxy, it does sand and feathers out very nicely which is typically uncharacteristic for a regular epoxy. We block-sand this primer to 240 grit, and then follow up with a polyester hybrid surfacer called Finishsand. The benefit with this primer is it is also DTM and easily block-sands to 400 grit. Therefore if you have sanded thru the SuperBuild, you can use the Finishsand directly onto the bare metal. You can also use Evergold Putty over the top of either primer if you have a pinhole or an imperfection show up. Both of these primer products have taken away the need for a sealer to be applied before spraying the finish-coat, ...and quite frankly since most companies have gone away from offering a sandable sealer, it doesn't make much sense to block-sand to 400 grit and then spray a sealer that just reintroduces a layer of orange peel for the finish-coat to be sprayed onto. Again, everyone has their own preferred method of cooking materials they want to use so I am not saying my recommendations are the best, but you must also remember that most products are geared for the collision industry and not the restoration industry. __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .