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Old 04-23-2018, 12:08 PM   #6
Tom Endy
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,131
Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

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Be sure to use a proper spring spreader. The one shown in the photo can be purchased from Snyder's for less than $100. A more deluxe one goes for $135. Both are safe to use. This is very important as an improper spring spreader can inflict injury and damage. As long as the spring is retained in the frame with the two U-bolts it is safe. You take your life in your hands if you remove the rear axle assembly with the spring still attached as all that it holding it together is a 3/8" center bolt that could be 80 years old and rusted.


Put the rear of the frame on jack stands. Install the spring spreader and spread the spring. make sure it is properly secured at each end around the shackle boss.


Remove the shackles and lower the rear axle assembly.


Collapse the spring spreader and remove it. The spring is then no longer lethal.


Remove the nuts from the two U-bolts and lower the spring. Best have help as it is heavy.


Put the spring on a work bench and put a C-clamp next to the center bolt. This is done not for safety reasons, but to make it easy to remove the nut from the center bolt. There is very little tension left in the leaf stack.


The center bolt will likely be peened at the end so you may have to grind it flush with the nut in order to remove it.


Take a center punch and make a line of marks on the edge of the leafs somewhere so you will know how it came apart.


The individual leaves should be degreased, sand blasted or bead blasted.


Take a disk grinder and round the sharp edges at each leaf end. Grind the witness marks out of the area on the top of each leaf where the sharp edge has dug in.


Spray the contact portion of each leaf with a heavy coat of slip plate graphite lubricant. Most of the suppliers carry it. It goes on black and dries quickly.


Reassemble the spring using a new center bolt. They come twice as long as need be to aid in the reassembly. Make sure it has a square head on it as it has to fit in the square hole in the frame.


A C-clamp placed next to the head of the center bolt will make it easy to run the nut on. Tighten the nut, cut the excess of the bolt off and peen the end. Make sure the square head is oriented correctly.


The line of punches you put on the edge of the leafs will tell you how it came apart. You can put it back the way it was or reverse every other leaf, which is what I do.


As the leafs came together some amount of slip plate will squeeze out. Wipe it off with rag with lacquer thinner and paint the spring black.


This is a good time to replace the shackle bushings in both the spring ends and the two axle housings.


Reinstall the spring in the car using the two U-bolts. Make sure the square head of the center bolt is properly inserted in the square hole of the frame. I use chalk marks to line things up. The spring is still heavy, so you should have help, or use a floor jack.


Once the spring is secured in the frame install the spring spreader and spread the spring and install the shackle bolts. Once the shackle bolts are secure remove the spring spreader.


Tom Endy
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