[Drbrown]

Old Henry .... Gauge adjustment to simulate after-market gauge readings :

I was fortunate to have a spare set of dash gauges to practice on.

Very gently slide the face of the gauge upward and off the gauge pod. Although it can be straightened, avoid bending the frail aluminum needle indicator. You will see two vertical adjusting arms .... one on right, one on left, each with a three or four saw-tooth edge positioned over a hole in the plate behind them.

The right-hand vertical adjusting arm appears to be for positioning the base of the needle indicator to the zero "0" position. Factory set, this probably doesn't need adjustment.

The left-hand vertical adjusting arm sets the oil pressure reading. It's an upside-down copper "U" shaped tension piece, the outer part of which is stationary and wrapped with the wire "heating" element. (Note: Be extremely careful not to touch any of these frail wires inside the meter ... its a very hard and delicate job to re-solder them) To adjust the indicator needle, and with all gauge wires connected and engine running while cold and under its maximum oil pressure, inset a small straight-blade screw driver into the hole to engage the saw-teeth to move the base of the arm. Pry on the saw-teeth, gently and slowly shifting the indicator base (usually to reduce the tension within the arm). I adjusted mine to nearly match the max oil pressure showing on the aftermarket gauge. In normal operation the gauge is now pretty accurate in the full range of the dial. Pressure at idle remains an approximation and I would only be concerned if that was registering zero.

The fuel and temp gauges are similar in design and I've adjusted them in similar fashion.