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roccaas · 07-23-2010, 06:10 AM

If you don't mind taking off the head, turn the engine to #1 TDC (both valves closed).

With a cold chisel, tap a small cleft into the TDC of the crank pulley (not for show cars obviously). Put a small drop of paint on the timing case in line with the cleft. When you time the engine, make sure you look straight down onto the cleft and paint spot. Looking for the marks from the side of the engine engenders parallax which can throw off your TDC timing. A step ladder and looking down from above the radiator is a good way to line up everything.

There was an old article on making a sheet metal arrow that bolts to the head and drops down to point to the TDC cleft. It makes timing my engine on the road very easy.

Make sure you don't time with #1 at TDC on the exhaust stroke or you will have an exhaust manifold full of gas, and all the oil washed off of the cylinder bores!

This is also a good time to check the gasket for blow through between #3 and #4, water leaks, gasket overlap into the cylinders, etc. Tighten and retorque the head in the correct pattern as described elsewhere on this site.

Don't want to remove the head? Take off #1 plug, get someone with slim fingers to feel for the piston TDC (again on combustion) and set the TDC from that position. A little harder to do because the Model A engine is a few degrees past the connecting rod at perfect vertical when the piston is at TDC, but it can be done. Again, use the timing pin as a 2nd opinion on TDC.

Tighten the fan belt and you can rock the engine a few degrees clockwise and counter clockwise to ensure TDC without having to use the hand crank.

I use Marco's excellent check list to set the timing, and the TDC mark is easier to use (and a good double check for the timing pin - measure twice, cut once) when you are setting the timing.

Make sure your distributor is in GREAT shape. Slop leads to widely varying gaps which are annoying and make for less than smooth driving.

I get that sewing machine sound at full spark retard (people love to hear each cylinder firing), and great power at full spark advance.

07-23-2010, 06:10 AM	#8
roccaas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Savannah, GA Posts: 1,300	Seeking TDC If you don't mind taking off the head, turn the engine to #1 TDC (both valves closed). With a cold chisel, tap a small cleft into the TDC of the crank pulley (not for show cars obviously). Put a small drop of paint on the timing case in line with the cleft. When you time the engine, make sure you look straight down onto the cleft and paint spot. Looking for the marks from the side of the engine engenders parallax which can throw off your TDC timing. A step ladder and looking down from above the radiator is a good way to line up everything. There was an old article on making a sheet metal arrow that bolts to the head and drops down to point to the TDC cleft. It makes timing my engine on the road very easy. Make sure you don't time with #1 at TDC on the exhaust stroke or you will have an exhaust manifold full of gas, and all the oil washed off of the cylinder bores! This is also a good time to check the gasket for blow through between #3 and #4, water leaks, gasket overlap into the cylinders, etc. Tighten and retorque the head in the correct pattern as described elsewhere on this site. Don't want to remove the head? Take off #1 plug, get someone with slim fingers to feel for the piston TDC (again on combustion) and set the TDC from that position. A little harder to do because the Model A engine is a few degrees past the connecting rod at perfect vertical when the piston is at TDC, but it can be done. Again, use the timing pin as a 2nd opinion on TDC. Tighten the fan belt and you can rock the engine a few degrees clockwise and counter clockwise to ensure TDC without having to use the hand crank. I use Marco's excellent check list to set the timing, and the TDC mark is easier to use (and a good double check for the timing pin - measure twice, cut once) when you are setting the timing. Make sure your distributor is in GREAT shape. Slop leads to widely varying gaps which are annoying and make for less than smooth driving. I get that sewing machine sound at full spark retard (people love to hear each cylinder firing), and great power at full spark advance.