The Ford Barn - View Single Post - FINALLY…T5 WITH Torque Tube in a ‘35-’40 Ford...The WHOLE STORY!

V8COOPMAN · 10-14-2016, 12:55 PM

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6 Let’s Cut ‘n Glue Both Ends Together

OK, the engine, trans and wishbone ball are now bolted-into their final resting places. And we actually didn’t hack-up the frame very seriously at all. Now, we need to tie it all together by shortening the torque tube and drive shaft. If any of ya have been wondering up until now, the torque tube had “SOMETHING NEAR 8” taken out”. WARNING….WARNING!!! As Heard pointed-out……make measurements INDIVIDUALLY when measuring for shortening the D-shaft, and then for shortening the T-tube. DO NOT assume that one will be shortened the SAME amount as the other!!!!! But we’re getting a little ahead of ourselves. BEFORE things are ever taken apart initially, you need to determine EXACTLY where the rear end is supposed to sit, fore and aft. Note the two pieces of conduit in the picture, bolted between the banjo housing and the frame rails to keep that distance constant. Anyway, at first, we had to think about what exactly needed to be measured, so as to determine D-shaft and T-tube lengths. After a false start or two, and keeping in mind that the hemispherical bell on the north end of the T-tube has no definitive position on the clamshell area, we finally realized that the way to start is by measuring the distance from the hole for the pin in the pinion shaft at the rear, to the center of the speedometer gear as mounted on the driveshaft. When the speedo gear is properly mounted on the d-shaft with the snap ring in place, and with the front of the d-shaft slipped into the U-joint, the center of the gear’s position is accurately determined on the front end of the d-shaft. Measuring from that gear’s definite center point in space, to the pin hole in the pinion shaft gives you the information necessary to be able to compute the exact measurement for shortening your d-shaft. The rest just falls into place for the d-shaft’s OVERALL length. NOTE….’35 and ‘36 drive shafts are tubular, and tapered at both front AND rear. When shortening one of these, remove the un-wanted portion from the REAR end of shaft. If you take it out of the front end of the shaft, the remaining FAT portion will not clear the inside of the tapered front end of the T-Tube.
Determining the length of the new T-Tube is easy with the d-shaft now shortened. Simply insert the front end of the drive shaft into the T-tube. Assemble the bearing, washer, speedo gear and snap ring onto the D-shaft to position it at it’s NORMAL position in the T-tube. Assemble the FRONT of the D-shaft / T-tube into the U-joint and clamshell assembly on rear of transmission. With the REAR end of the T-tube positioned adjacent to the flat face on the front of the banjo housing where the T-tube flange bolts-on, mark the T-tube for what will NOW represent the OVERALL length of the SHORTENED T-tube AND it’s 6-hole bolt-flange. Compare the difference in length between the NEW mark, and the original OVERALL length. The DIFFERENCE should be what is removed, just forward of the 6-bolt flange (see pictures). Measure SEVERAL times…but cut only ONCE!

Heard got lucky and found an OLD guy at an old, local d-shaft shop by the name of “Pops”! It gets no better!! Pops has obviously done this a couple of times before. He shortened the d-shaft first. Heard then pinned the shortened shaft in position between rear end and the U-joint. He had already gotten Pops to part the T-tube in a lathe, and to remove the pre-measured, un-necessary section from the stock torque-tube. Heard had again assembled the front of the NOW two-piece T-tube around the D-shaft and into the front clamshell. He then bolted the rear T-tube flange into position on the banjo. Pops had machined a sleeve to slip inside the rear-most T-tube end, and welded a beautiful bead to permanently hold it in. This sleeve is to keep the two tube halves lined-up, as well as for substance to weld to. With the front and rear portions of the T-tube in place, Heard tacked the two tubes together (see pic), and then took it back for Pops to finish putting his magic weld on it. TOTAL bill at Pops’ shop…$120! Some folks may also note that the speedometer turtle now sits level on top of the T-tube. The original position angled downward, and was going to require hacking-out some more of the frame to route the speedo cable. This position will allow the cable to be routed over the top of the frame rail, under the floor. One additional note…the REAR radius rods have NOT been shortened. However, the tab which allows the rods to be bolted to the bottom of the T-tube has been moved forward and re-welded in the proper location.

Un-cut D-shaft

Shortened d-shaft

Torque Tube Ready to Weld-up

10-14-2016, 12:55 PM	#6
V8COOPMAN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON Posts: 11,113	Re: FINALLY…T5 WITH Torque Tube in a ‘35-’40 Ford...The WHOLE STORY! Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) 6 *Let’s Cut ‘n Glue Both Ends Together* OK, the engine, trans and wishbone ball are now bolted-into their final resting places. And we actually didn’t hack-up the frame very seriously at all. Now, we need to tie it all together by shortening the torque tube and drive shaft. If any of ya have been wondering up until now, the torque tube had “SOMETHING NEAR 8” taken out”. WARNING….WARNING!!! As Heard pointed-out……make measurements INDIVIDUALLY when measuring for shortening the D-shaft, and then for shortening the T-tube. DO NOT assume that one will be shortened the SAME amount as the other!!!!! But we’re getting a little ahead of ourselves. BEFORE things are ever taken apart initially, you need to determine EXACTLY where the rear end is supposed to sit, fore and aft. Note the two pieces of conduit in the picture, bolted between the banjo housing and the frame rails to keep that distance constant. Anyway, at first, we had to think about what exactly needed to be measured, so as to determine D-shaft and T-tube lengths. After a false start or two, and keeping in mind that the hemispherical bell on the north end of the T-tube has no definitive position on the clamshell area, we finally realized that the way to start is by measuring the distance from the hole for the pin in the pinion shaft at the rear, to the center of the speedometer gear as mounted on the driveshaft. When the speedo gear is properly mounted on the d-shaft with the snap ring in place, and with the front of the d-shaft slipped into the U-joint, the center of the gear’s position is accurately determined on the front end of the d-shaft. Measuring from that gear’s definite center point in space, to the pin hole in the pinion shaft gives you the information necessary to be able to compute the exact measurement for shortening your d-shaft. The rest just falls into place for the d-shaft’s OVERALL length. NOTE….’35 and ‘36 drive shafts are tubular, and tapered at both front AND rear. When shortening one of these, remove the un-wanted portion from the REAR end of shaft. If you take it out of the front end of the shaft, the remaining FAT portion will not clear the inside of the tapered front end of the T-Tube. Determining the length of the new T-Tube is easy with the d-shaft now shortened. Simply insert the front end of the drive shaft into the T-tube. Assemble the bearing, washer, speedo gear and snap ring onto the D-shaft to position it at it’s NORMAL position in the T-tube. Assemble the FRONT of the D-shaft / T-tube into the U-joint and clamshell assembly on rear of transmission. With the REAR end of the T-tube positioned adjacent to the flat face on the front of the banjo housing where the T-tube flange bolts-on, mark the T-tube for what will NOW represent the OVERALL length of the SHORTENED T-tube AND it’s 6-hole bolt-flange. Compare the difference in length between the NEW mark, and the original OVERALL length. The DIFFERENCE should be what is removed, just forward of the 6-bolt flange (see pictures). Measure SEVERAL times…but cut only ONCE! Heard got lucky and found an OLD guy at an old, local d-shaft shop by the name of “Pops”! It gets no better!! Pops has obviously done this a couple of times before. He shortened the d-shaft first. Heard then pinned the shortened shaft in position between rear end and the U-joint. He had already gotten Pops to part the T-tube in a lathe, and to remove the pre-measured, un-necessary section from the stock torque-tube. Heard had again assembled the front of the NOW two-piece T-tube around the D-shaft and into the front clamshell. He then bolted the rear T-tube flange into position on the banjo. Pops had machined a sleeve to slip inside the rear-most T-tube end, and welded a beautiful bead to permanently hold it in. This sleeve is to keep the two tube halves lined-up, as well as for substance to weld to. With the front and rear portions of the T-tube in place, Heard tacked the two tubes together (see pic), and then took it back for Pops to finish putting his magic weld on it. TOTAL bill at Pops’ shop…$120! Some folks may also note that the speedometer turtle now sits level on top of the T-tube. The original position angled downward, and was going to require hacking-out some more of the frame to route the speedo cable. This position will allow the cable to be routed over the top of the frame rail, under the floor. One additional note…the REAR radius rods have NOT been shortened. However, the tab which allows the rods to be bolted to the bottom of the T-tube has been moved forward and re-welded in the proper location. Un-cut D-shaft Shortened d-shaft Torque Tube Ready to Weld-up __________________ *Click Links Below* __ ▼ *'35-'36 W/8BA & MECHANICAL FAN* *T5 W/TORQUE TUBE* Last edited by V8COOPMAN; 10-14-2016 at 02:24 PM.