[Purdy Swoft]

I agree with Paul . Some will probably never understand the basic steps to setting the timing . It is most important to First remove all of the spark plugs to remove compression . If a person has to fight compression , the closer the engine comes to the timing dimple , the harder the engine will be to turn . The harder the engine is to turn , the more likely it will be to go past the timing dimple . It is most important to get the initial timing as exact as possible !!!!!!! If the initial timing isn't correctly set it will be impossible to correctly set the spark for Full retard or advance , depending on which direction that the timing is off . With that said , When the timing pin drops into the dimple on the timing gear , Loosen the cam screw and adjust the distributor cam so that the trailing edge of the rotor tip points at the number one contact in the distributor cap . Remember that the distributor shaft and rotor rides on the trailing edge . The distributor turns in the counter clockwise direction . NO backlash should be allowed on the trailing side of the rotor tip when the cam screw is tightened . Many will have some worn in backlash in the distributor shaft . The timing will be retarded to whatever amount of backlash remains on the trailing side of the rotor tip after the cam screw is tightened . Backlash is what causes some to end up with retarded timing . In other words , where the rotor tip points is where the spark will go when it happens . Points gap controls when the spark happens . More gap advances the timing because the quicker the points open the more advanced the timing will end up . More gap advances , less gap retards . Factory specs are eighteen to twenty two thousands .When setting the timing , I always adjust the points first and then set the initial timing as EXACT as possible for better cooler performance . When the timing is the least bit retarded it will cause loss of power and over heating . Hopefully this will explain the difference between points and initial timing . When points and initial distributor timing is correctly set the driver will be able to use the spark lever to control the timing . I fully retard the spark lever when cranking the model A . When bucking , pinging or knocking occurs it will be necessary to retard the lever until the knocking, pinging or bucking goes away and that is the jest of using the spark lever. There is NO set spot that the spark lever needs to be except when starting the engine . Otherwise the position of the spark lever will depend on driving conditions . When pulling hills or when in a strain , more retard will be needed to prevent bucking when taking off or pings and knocks when in a strain . Modern cars advance and retard automatically, Model A's must be retarded or advanced by the driver and there is NO one place that the lever should be set for all the time use .


If a spare distributer has the timing set for the engine it will be used on , it can be removed and replaced without having to reset the timing . AS the points block wears the gap closes and retards the timing . If there is a power loss or hotter temps , check points gap first .