Quote:
Originally Posted by RickInVA
There comes a time when many will be confronted with installing a Burtz engine or have a trailer queen that is just polished. My engine has been bored .100 over and the crankshaft has been ground .020 under. To buy a rebuilt engine I must supply a rebuildable engine in return. To try to repair mine I am faced with a crank that has had the nitride hardning ground off and the the cylinders sleeved. I will also would need to deal with the head studs and loose heli coils. I end up with an unreliable, short lived, engine. The Burtz engine is the way to go.
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Rick,
There are many engines with sleeves in them that run long life spans without issues... The crank you can buy a repop crank with counter balancing and will be a vast improvement. The motors can be saved, and many will choose to save their motors due to keeping the vintage tin together with the vintage steel, But I do agree with you...
There will be a point where people will cross that bridge of ditching the babbit motor and installing brand new, with the serviceability of the A platform, A new block less prone to cracks and fatigue isnt a bad idea... In 100 years they will be still driving A's hopefully.
The Burtz block vs the normal rebuild isn't too far off money wise, and like many probably are doing, they are building a spare block while they drive their car till the day the motor is needed to replace a failing block, or just doing it for a huge upgrade in power or just dependability.
I see both sides of the coin for sure... But End of the day... Its your money, spend it how you want to spend it... I find it more fun myself personally to run old motors that have history... How many motors and cars were made into tanks in WW2? ALOT... I find it a pleasure to play with motors that survived the steel drives and all the other dumb regulations and programs to this day... But thats me.