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Old 09-16-2017, 09:42 AM   #11
Licensed to kill
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Default Re: I believe I found the leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut View Post
Also, do not screw in the new drain tube too far! You do not want to screw it in until all the threads on the tube are not visible. That will block the oil passageway inside the cap. Screw in the new tube so that you can still see a couple threads. It would be a good idea to order a couple welch plugs when order the new drain tube. Pry out the old one before you screw in the new tube. This way, you can ensure by looking into the hole that the tube is not too deep. Then simply tap in the new welch (freeze) plug. Order a 3/8" tube, even if your cap has the older 5/16" tube. You'll need to re-tap the threads in the cap for this larger tube. JB Weld or braze the new tube in place. By installing the 3/8" drain tube, you will help the rear main drain oil back into the pan better. Ford changed from 5/16" to 3/8" in 1930 because of rear main leakage complaints.
Marshall
Thanks you for that. That is one thing I was aware of as I have been researching this for a few days and read about not screwing the tube in all the way and why. I appreciate you mentioning it as it is pretty obvious that I am new to these engines.
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