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Old 01-28-2020, 10:35 AM   #15
hop up
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 411
Default Re: Bad steering new shaft

Interesting as the wall of the tubing is only .170 and doing a male female thread doesn’t give a lot of room . Then add machine or grind a V to weld and now grind it all down?

If intending to use the shaft I would sleeve the area and weld the edges and also drill the sleeve and plug weld them. What is the cost of safety it is a thin wall tubing .. This being living in Chicago Home of the Pot Hole.....
I am also curious with all that work to join the two shaft and thats a bit of time , why a new shaft wasn’t just made? Cutting a taper (steering wheel) and threading it could be dont quickly and key can be machined with a woodruff key cutter. I know it was said new 30 31 shafts are made so what makes the 28 29 different. The splines on the end (worm gear) can be broached along with grinding cutting and or machining them in a simple setup on a indexing head..


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel Gross View Post
If the comment from J Franklin is in regards to our F100 steering box conversions, then that is incorrect. All of our 1930-31 two tooth shafts are made of brand new thick walled steel tubing and do not have a weld at all. Our 1928-29 seven tooth shaft are two pieces. The upper portions are from the original 1928-29 shaft and the lower portion is the brand new thick walled steel tubing. The two pieces are threaded (tap and die) and screwed together to the proper length required (end to end), then put on a lathe with a dial indicator, then welded completely around the tapered (V) joint. After the area where the threads are, are countersunk drilled and have two French welds done for additional reinforcement. When completed, a horn rod will still go thru our column shafts. We have used the same certified welder / machinist for over 25 years to do this process.
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Last edited by hop up; 01-28-2020 at 12:28 PM.
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