The Ford Barn - View Single Post - At my wits end, with this no-start problem!

Bobs29ModelA · 11-06-2011, 01:54 AM

Believe it or not, I'm STILL having a no-start issue with my '31 Coupe, after 3 months of working on it! Here's the scoop:

- When I first test-drove this car, it was starting and running just fine
- As soon as it was delivered to my home, however, the car would suddenly only crank, but would not even attempt to start
- I checked and verified all timing, compression readings, electrical connections, proper gas flow, etc... no problems were found and everything seemed to be properly set
- During the first month of this no-start condition, I tried replacing the 6-volt battery, installing a brand-new Tillotson carburetor, converting to a new 6-volt positive-ground alternator; installing new points, cap, rotor and wires; I tried different coils, wires, spark plugs, etc... yet, I still had a weak spark
- I then tried bypassing the power wire from the armored cable, and instead ran power from the ignition switch directly to the points in the distributor
- The car suddenly started (instantly!) and it ran fine this way for a full week... Subsequent starts continued to be just as instantaneous. However, on the way home from it's first real 20-mile outing, it suddenly started misfiring and running poorly again, backfiring a lot in the process
- The car ran poorly again the next day, and then finally stopped running for good, leaving me stranded on the side of the road
- Since then, I've tried upgrading to a new Weber downdraft carb and electric fuel pump system, along with a new manifold and gasket (to cure a leak I'd found), and I also upgraded to an FSI Ignitions pointless distributor with a mechanical advance. Still, no start!
- Thinking it might possibly have a "floating ground" issue, I replaced the positive battery cable with an original-style copper-strap type, but first polished the mounting-bolt area to a chrome-like shine with my Dremel tool. I then added a ground-strap from that very same frame crossmember to the left-hand frame rail... again polishing all connection spots with the Dremel tool. I then added a final ground-strap from the left-hand frame rail to a polished spot/bolt on the engine block. Impedance readings from the battery to the frame and body show perfect continuity readings... yet, the car still refuses to start and still exhibits a weak spark!
- I worked with the owners of FSI Ignitions, who were great with their technical help, and they ultimately sent me another new pointless distributor, in case their unit was defective... yet, the new unit has made no difference; the spark continues to remain weak, and the car still refuses to start!

I'm running out of options here.... does anyone have any more suggestions for something I may not have checked yet? H-E-L-P!

11-06-2011, 01:54 AM	#1
Bobs29ModelA Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Livermore, CA Posts: 124	At my wits end, with this no-start problem! Believe it or not, I'm STILL having a no-start issue with my '31 Coupe, after 3 months of working on it! Here's the scoop: - When I first test-drove this car, it was starting and running just fine - As soon as it was delivered to my home, however, the car would suddenly only crank, but would not even attempt to start - I checked and verified all timing, compression readings, electrical connections, proper gas flow, etc... no problems were found and everything seemed to be properly set - During the first month of this no-start condition, I tried replacing the 6-volt battery, installing a brand-new Tillotson carburetor, converting to a new 6-volt positive-ground alternator; installing new points, cap, rotor and wires; I tried different coils, wires, spark plugs, etc... yet, I still had a weak spark - I then tried bypassing the power wire from the armored cable, and instead ran power from the ignition switch directly to the points in the distributor - The car suddenly started (instantly!) and it ran fine this way for a full week... Subsequent starts continued to be just as instantaneous. However, on the way home from it's first real 20-mile outing, it suddenly started misfiring and running poorly again, backfiring a lot in the process - The car ran poorly again the next day, and then finally stopped running for good, leaving me stranded on the side of the road - Since then, I've tried upgrading to a new Weber downdraft carb and electric fuel pump system, along with a new manifold and gasket (to cure a leak I'd found), and I also upgraded to an FSI Ignitions pointless distributor with a mechanical advance. Still, no start! - Thinking it might possibly have a "floating ground" issue, I replaced the positive battery cable with an original-style copper-strap type, but first polished the mounting-bolt area to a chrome-like shine with my Dremel tool. I then added a ground-strap from that very same frame crossmember to the left-hand frame rail... again polishing all connection spots with the Dremel tool. I then added a final ground-strap from the left-hand frame rail to a polished spot/bolt on the engine block. Impedance readings from the battery to the frame and body show perfect continuity readings... yet, the car still refuses to start and still exhibits a weak spark! - I worked with the owners of FSI Ignitions, who were great with their technical help, and they ultimately sent me another new pointless distributor, in case their unit was defective... yet, the new unit has made no difference; the spark continues to remain weak, and the car still refuses to start! I'm running out of options here.... does anyone have any more suggestions for something I may not have checked yet? H-E-L-P! Last edited by Bobs29ModelA; 11-06-2011 at 02:17 AM.