Quote:
Originally Posted by desotoguy
Let's see, the buyer walks into the shop and here is how it should go.
The engine had a broken head stud, which I drilled out and replaced, and buy the way I also tapped all the stud holes with a class 2 tap, i only wanted to make the engine run.
Helo my name is Bob
|
OK, what are you talking about? I also didn't have a broken head "stud", my engine had a broken "bolt". I didn't tap stud holes, I taped bolt holes. From reading the above posts I can see there is a difference. If I had studs I'd have to be more concerned with making sure the studs were straight, I don't think there should be as much concern about this with bolts, which I bought new grade #5 bolts to replace the old rusty ones. I do realize I might have caused a leakage problem but that seems to be a rather simple thing to fix with the correct sealant.
I would not have tapped the holes if I had known this wasn't the correct thing to do. Whenever I have a hard to remove bolt I always clean the threads with an appropriate tap after removing the bolt. I did not know the block holes were tapped with a special thread. I am not a professional engine rebuilder or machinist, I'm just a hobbiest. If I had the slightest idea that what I did wasn't correct I would have checked in here first. I didn't even know this was a concern until I saw a post on the FTE side a week or so after I tapped the holes. Until then I thought a threaded hole was a threaded hole. Like I stated, when I tapped the holes the tap went in and out without noticable resistance. If they had offered some resistance I would have stopped and at the very least talked to my neighbor down the road who is a machinist and has been working on old cars for many more years than I have.
Also, when selling something I am always as completely honest as I can be. I don't want to have a buyer come back to me complaining that I cheated them. I don't like to be cheated and I don't like cheating people. When I do finally get to the point of selling this engine I will reveal everything about it. If a potential buyer doesn't like something I have for sale I do not force them to buy the item, it is totally up to them. I am sure I will have people lined up to buy it. I feel I should be able to get more for an engine that can be shown to run without any strange noises than a engine that is in pieces. I also know a major concern with flatties is the block cracks and I want to be able to pull the heads to show the condition of the block. I am fairly certain anyone who is looking for a flattie will want to pull the heads. I wouldn't pay top dollar for an engine I couldn't hear run.
I do sell parts but I am not a high end wheeler dealer, I sell parts from parts trucks and cars I buy to help finance my projects. If I didn't I would never be able to afford to play with this vehicles.