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Originally Posted by Jwawhite
how did you access the center nut of the door hinges?
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With the door opened all the way, poke a 1/2 inch hex socket in there with a extension bar attached and socket wrench. I used a little 1/4 inch drive socket set and used the long extension for that middle bolt. I used the short extension for most of the other bolts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jwawhite
Are all nuts free floating (3) on the hinge?
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For the hinge-to-cowl mount, the upper and lower nuts of each hinge are punch-pressed into the cowl so they cannot twist or fall out. The middle nuts of each hinge have a sliding nut on the front side of the cowl (hidden by the front fender). Remember that these may be coated with roofing cement from the factory and might be difficult to slide as I indicated in the private message reply to your earlier questions.
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Originally Posted by Jwawhite
Will the nuts just fall to the bottom of the cowl?
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None of the nuts will fall down into the rocker panel as they are either pressed in or sandwiched in a little sliding channel as mentioned earlier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jwawhite
Any issues with tightening the bolts back to 15lbs?
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No, 15ft/lbs torque is plenty and you can achieve that easily with a little socket set like I used.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jwawhite
Need a wrench on the nuts?
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A small socket set like I used was good enough for everything except for the two bottom forwardmost bolts on the hinge-to-door adjustment because the bolts are somewhat embedded behind the front of the doorframe, but for those, I had an offset 1/2 inch closed-end wrench that was perfect. I do not recommend using any straight or open-ended wrenches for any of this. Now... this hinge-to-door adjustment is NOT the adjustment we have been mainly talking about. To push the door inward at the top, you will be working with the hinge-to-cowl adjustments
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jwawhite
Is it necessary to put a jack under the door for the in/out adjustment only?
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As I mentioned earlier, you should loosen both top and bottom hinges to relieve stress on the door hinge pins when making any adjustment even if one of those hinges is exactly where you want it. Also bear in mind that the slotted holes in the hinge mounting bosses are slightly oversized for exactly this purpose, therefore by moving the door in at the top, you will also actually be tilting the bottom hinge hopefully without changing it's position on the cowl. Keep an eye on this by scribing a mark with a fine-tipped marking pen around the top and bottom mounting bosses. If your position slips, just pull it back in nearest those pen marks and you should be good. Now, I would block under the door before loosening the bolts so that you don't loose 1/16 inch of height due to those oversized slotted holes. That 1/16 inch could kill ya on the top door seal. Very big deal!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jwawhite
The Arch you describe, is the center nut attached to this Arch?
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I couldn't find reference to that anywhere in our private messages back-n-forth, but perhaps the question has already been answered herein. If not, please re-phrase in more detail so I know what you mean.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jwawhite
I can see where the upper hinge has slid out a bit from looking at the paint.
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Don't pay any attention to where the factory paint ends behind the door hinges. I bought my car in 1972 from the original owner and the car had never had diddly done to it. It even had the factory original Ford Power Punch 6-volt battery with the big round blue caps still in the car. And the doors fit like a six-year old put them on. I say if you're gonna go to this trouble, why not go all the way and get the door positioned properly, where you want it so that the door will fit right in the jamb, seal good and close without a fight.