[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I’m pretty much doing the same as Herm is on my TA-14 except I have converted my machine to use a 1.000” boring bar so I can do Model-Ts too. I locate very similar to Herm’s method with the pins except I have different ones for T's, A's, & B's. Also, I set up a little differently in that I have a modified crank gear for both an A & T that has been bushed down to just slide over my boring bar. I install the camshaft & timing gear I plan to use during the rebuild, and then move the vertical height of the block to be able to set the desired backlash. Next I have a bridge that I made with an indicator mounted into the center that I place over the boring bar at the front main after my lash has been set. I use that bridge with an indicator to measure the set height of the bar, and then use that measurement to set my bar height over the rear main. This ensures the bar is parallel with the block, and as Herm mentioned, the pins locate it side to side.


One other thing I like with the Tobin Arp units (-over the K/W LBM) is their hydraulic drive unit which pushes the bar very smoothly with infinite speed control. Nothing wrong with either set-up, and I know of a gentleman down in Alabama that uses a KR Wilson Boring Plate that he mounts on T blocks and drives the boring bar unit with a T/A drive unit, and it produces some very pretty bearings. I kinda think he may have bored his boring plate from the 15/16" to 1.000" too.







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