[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Mr. KR, I used a N.O.S. Kwik-Way for about 5 years when I was a Kid. There are many things I can do on a Tobin-Arp, I couldn't do on a Kwik-Way, but the Kwik-Way is the best Align Bore out there if you are doing only Motors. You also have to make sure that the bar is not wore, and the two center springs, and Collar are set to, I think, been a long time, to 1/2 inch compression, for Bar sag.


OK, John, that is what I was talking about, when a set distance jig is used, you are Limited on getting the crank on the center line, and centered in the block. So if you are off by .010 thousandths, which is very easy, your front seal, rear seal, rear shims, and the transmission Pilot shaft, and Pilot bearing will be off.


So, Guys, what I did, on the Kwik-Way, was to center the Boring Bar first, and lock the bar bearings, so it stayed. I have a used Kwik-Way bar, and two Kwik-Way tapered cones, and run it through the cam holes. Then what ever Center distance you use, take that and add half the diameter of each bar to your center distance, and then Mic around each bar and get a feel so the Mic just passes with very light drag.


So, now, with the bar centered, the only direction for adjustment, is up, and down. Now for that adjustment, you use brass shims to go under your Alignment caps, always equal, on both sides of the two Jigs. I have always had to go up, never down.


Another way to center the bar, is make 4 plugs, two for front, and two for the rear. I will try to find some pictures to show what I am talking about. These plugs just fit the holes in the mains with no binding, or looseness. I made mine for T, A, and B's, all in the same plug.


Herm.