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Quote:
Originally Posted by dumb person
Babbitt is very soft, like solder, i can scrape it with my pocket knife, just scrape off enough to use for tinning the bronze thing i guess (like i said i have never done this bronze thing before). Ever see the big copper soldering iron that was used with a kerosene torch? i used that but had to take it to a place with an oxy' torch to heat it, all the kero' torches died of old age. Took about 5 minutes for the copper to go cold which was plenty of time to melt some old rod cap onto the thrust face. i then filed it to fit.
As for the cracks in the main i have seen some old posts on the internet where old guys glued the broken babbitt back on the caps when it fell out while doing maintenance to get them through until "next winter" so you might be able to live with those cracks as they are, meddling with them might make things worse.
Good luck!
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I've the instert installed and still need some more adjustment. What is this tinning you speak of. I've got another block that I'm going to have poured so I can rob tons of babbitt off that. Do I heat the bronze to the melting temp of the babbitt then touch the babbitt to it? Does it stick well to it. Do I need to prep it with some sanding or flux? Could you explain this a bit? I've also got a TIG welder. Could I just lay some bronze beads on the thrust insert? Just not sure what to do here. Thanks
I've also got a Dana 30 carrier shim that fits perfectly in there and would dial in my thrust. This carrier shim is steel and would ride on the thrust of the crank. I would cut it in half and bend some tabs to ride under the cap as the shim is the same 10 thou as my main cap shims. I'd cut the main cap shims to accept the Dana 30 axle carrier shim. Would the steel shim ridding against the crank mar or damage the crank thrust area? The shim takes to a file but so does the crank.. The crank rings like a fordged unit when I tap it. Not sure though..