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Joe K · 04-30-2019, 08:47 AM

One removal technique I have done is to use a length of 1" pipe longer than the shaft. The shaft is placed top end down in the pipe. The pipe and shaft are then "smartly" rapped on a concrete floor (or a piece of 3/4" steel plate) and INERTIA removes the shaft leaving the worm in your right hand - or rolling around on the floor.

I considered a "converse" to this using a pipe coupling, a pipe bushing, a long rod (to hold the coupling to the end of the shaft/worm) and tapping this whole assembly on the floor/steel plate. As with the worm removal method I used, INERTIA of the shaft should carry it into the worm similarly without damage to the worm.

BUT - Doing it this way control is not as good for worm locating. Perhaps a press or the threaded option affords better control? Which is why I didn't suggest it.

Joe K

04-30-2019, 08:47 AM	#5
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: New 2 tooth steering shaft One removal technique I have done is to use a length of 1" pipe longer than the shaft. The shaft is placed top end down in the pipe. The pipe and shaft are then "smartly" rapped on a concrete floor (or a piece of 3/4" steel plate) and INERTIA removes the shaft leaving the worm in your right hand - or rolling around on the floor. I considered a "converse" to this using a pipe coupling, a pipe bushing, a long rod (to hold the coupling to the end of the shaft/worm) and tapping this whole assembly on the floor/steel plate. As with the worm removal method I used, INERTIA of the shaft should carry it into the worm similarly without damage to the worm. BUT - Doing it this way control is not as good for worm locating. Perhaps a press or the threaded option affords better control? Which is why I didn't suggest it. Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse. Last edited by Joe K; 04-30-2019 at 09:39 AM.