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Mart · 02-19-2020, 05:17 AM

Most points covered above.
I have a French motor in my roadster. Just from memory here are my take-homes on French motors.

Blocks are 59A/8BA hybrids with features from both.
Front area is an oil drain and the vent in the pan must be closed off. (PCV system may be required)
4" crank in the SUMB version. Rods are 6-7/8 so common pistons can be used.
7" rods same as 8BA in 3-3/4" versions. Common pistons with 4".
If you use Ford pistons the skirts need trimming in a 4" motor and you leave out the bottom ring.
The exhaust fixings use studs because the holes are drilled into the water jacket. The studs are 10mm x 1.25 pitch. I have run a 3/8 UNF die down them successfully including holding on an engine stand. I believe block side of studs are SAE.
You need 59A style main bearings.
You need a matching oil pan, starter and flywheel from a 59A as donors. The oil pan will need clearancing near the front main.
Valve bowls are restricted. These can be hogged out, I don't know how far. I didn't hit water on mine, but was pretty conservative.
59A cam can be used with a 2 bolt cover and a crab dizzy.
Ring gear on flywheel MAY have the teeth chamfered the wrong way round for an non inertia starter. 4" SUMB are all 11" clutches.
4" crank plugs are deep drawn sheet metal 5/8" diameter.
All core parts are imperial same as USA. Some peripheral parts are metric but these are normally discarded, with the exception of the exhaust studs.

There's probably more but that is all I can think of for now.

Mart.

02-19-2020, 05:17 AM	#9
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,756	Re: Traded for a French Flathead Block Most points covered above. I have a French motor in my roadster. Just from memory here are my take-homes on French motors. Blocks are 59A/8BA hybrids with features from both. Front area is an oil drain and the vent in the pan must be closed off. (PCV system may be required) 4" crank in the SUMB version. Rods are 6-7/8 so common pistons can be used. 7" rods same as 8BA in 3-3/4" versions. Common pistons with 4". If you use Ford pistons the skirts need trimming in a 4" motor and you leave out the bottom ring. The exhaust fixings use studs because the holes are drilled into the water jacket. The studs are 10mm x 1.25 pitch. I have run a 3/8 UNF die down them successfully including holding on an engine stand. I believe block side of studs are SAE. You need 59A style main bearings. You need a matching oil pan, starter and flywheel from a 59A as donors. The oil pan will need clearancing near the front main. Valve bowls are restricted. These can be hogged out, I don't know how far. I didn't hit water on mine, but was pretty conservative. 59A cam can be used with a 2 bolt cover and a crab dizzy. Ring gear on flywheel MAY have the teeth chamfered the wrong way round for an non inertia starter. 4" SUMB are all 11" clutches. 4" crank plugs are deep drawn sheet metal 5/8" diameter. All core parts are imperial same as USA. Some peripheral parts are metric but these are normally discarded, with the exception of the exhaust studs. There's probably more but that is all I can think of for now. Mart.