[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

I have always tightened the studs down, with about a 10 pound torque, 48 years worth.

I use Indian head, or Permatex 300 on the stud at the bottom, as well as all gaskets.

Our engines always get the stud holes cleaned out. If you don't you can't get a truely clean hole, with rust, old gasket cement, ect., and you cant see any thread damage clearly.

Molested holes have been talked about, but we fix those kind. Also we can be trusted around studs, Dogs, and little Children.

Yes the studs are out of alignment a few thousandths on what I find to always be 1 to maybe 5., we NEVER use old studs on A's, or B's.

I use the head gasket to align the studs. First when you lay the gasket on, it looks like their all bent, but I have found this not to be the case. Always take the worst one first, but don't do a 100% job, but look for another off one, and that most of the time will let the gasket drop like a rock. If the gasket drops, so will the head.

I have a 3 pound lead hammer I tap them with, DO NOT POUND, but tap. The point of tapping is the bottom of the threads, on the top of the studs.

In my opinion, the studs should be locked on the shoulder, "THAT PULLS THE THREADS TIGHT", as loose threads would have to stand all the torque.

Also if there is water leakage, you would just have another place for water to come out of, that is not sealed.

Lastly, in all the other makes of cars, tractors, ect., I have NEVER seen any body leave a stut bolt loose!

Those that are worried about a short stud, just replace it with another one.

After Vern at Arnold Motors, In Fort Dodge, Iowa gets any bad holes fixed, and surface, I just don't have trouble with stud bolt height.

In any engine, block, body, running gears ect.



Herm.