[A bones]

I read where trash can liners make for good lubrication, I imagine two layers sliding against each other make for an easy neat job.

I'll try to share what I went through. Tools: 3 tire irons 2 C-clamps 1 mallet or big hammer. Getting started both, off, and on seems hardest. I asked for an extra pair of hands to help, my wife. Remove the valve stems and try to break the tire beads loose from the rims. ( I chose to work on the lawn to avoid scratches from the pavement )

Lube is key, most important. My choice ( NOT recommended ) was WD40. I've since read that better choices would be talcum, or RU-GLYDE ( seek at genuine auto parts supplier, along with a valve core tool - looks like a small thimble with a spike through it) The valve core tool will be much needed later.

After getting the beads to break loose, use the lube of choice to aid removal. The first iron needs to be held in place as the second is pulled over. Wise here to take a smaller bite, progress is progress. When using the third iron, be sure to keep the first in place. The second will come loose and may be removed.

At this point consider positioning a C-clamp to prevent the tire from jumping back into the rim. Clamp either rim or tire to prevent the tire returning home. By this time you understand the need of extra hands. Take your time, it gets easier.

When the first bead is off, extract the flap ( if present ) and the tube. The second bead will seem like a piece o cake.

Now time to get serious. Inspect the rim for rust, and the clinch edges for wear. Take care not to cut your fingers on rough edges. These conditions must be dealt with. Emory cloth, files, and small hammer work well to soften sharp edges and deal with rust. If not, new rubber will be damaged. Some owners choose to go with taping ( duct? ) the rim for protection. I went with flaps and restoration techniques.

Mounting the new tire reverse the order ( inner bead, tube, flap if present, outer bead )

I started with C-clamping the rim to prevent the bead from walking around the rim. ( smaller bites, lots of lube, mallet, if needed, to finish - all work here )

Now time to install tube. Use enough air to eliminate (as stated by '29spcoupe' above) wrinkles. Or to give it a shape. Critical here to index valve with hole in rim. ( and flap if present ). That valve tool I asked for earlier is used now to prevent the valve from disappearing inside the rim.

More lube, clamp, irons, mallet, and the outer bead is back in place ( somewhat ) Shake hands with your helper. Now time to wrestle the tire and tube to get the valve straight in the rim hole. Glad of that lube now. As supplying air pressure need to check clincher bead seating in the rim. If out of whack, deflate, wrestle, fill again. If an area is not cooperating, try a little air, then some thumping ( mallet ) on the tread area. This can help to seat the bead.

As always the recommended pressure is 55lbs. I like to over inflate let's say 70psi for seating, then drop back to 55. Hope this helps. Good Luck