[big job]

Originally Posted by Jrappl

Sorry this is so long but I wanted to provide all the info I have available.

Background:
1959 Edsel Ranger, 292, 2sp auto. 99.9% complete and all original car. Previous owner died unexpectedly 50 years ago and it has not run since.

Engine is freshly rebuilt. I had a trusted local machine shop clean and machine the block and crank. Block 0.030 over and crank 0.010 under. I did the assembly - I've done several but this is my first y-block.

The engine has new pistons, rings and bushing. New main, rod and cam bearings, new timing chain set (counted pins several times and followed the manual), new oil pump, new fuel pump (vacuum wiper version). Heads have been cleaned, valves cleaned and seats hand honed, new valve stem seals, valve springs and keepers. Replacement used rocker arms.

I cleaned and rebuilt the original Ford 2 barrel. It's now very clean and all passages in the body are clear. Main jets are #48s (correct for 0-5000ft according to the manual). Installed a new power valve, needle and seat and all new gaskets/screw washers. I did place the backflow balls in the ventura main screw hole and in the screw hole on the power valve screw. The float does not leak and is adjusted correctly according to the manual 0.45" float to top of carb body and fuel level about 0.91" below top of body (removed horn and checked).

And of course, new plugs, wires and coil (internal resistor and I jumped passed the firewall resistor), cap, rotor, points, condenser.

Compression is good, all cylinders are between 145-155. It's only been run for 10-15 minutes total so far so rings may not be fully seated yet.

Ok finally, here's the problem:
The engine starts but does not run well. It will not idle below about 1100 RPM, it stalls. It does rev fine if I open the throttle. The timing is pretty close but it's hard to get it exact with the engine running like this. Also, running like this I cannot adjust the idle mixture screws as they are not responsive at 1100+ rpm because that's above the idle circuit speed.

I have very good fuel flow from the fuel pump and there is plenty of fuel when I open the throttle so it's not a fuel delivery problem.

After a few minutes of warm up (still running poorly) if I close the choke butterfly manually without engaging the fast idle cam, the engine speeds up and smooths out. I expected closing the choke would kill the engine so I guess I have a vacuum/intake leak. With the choke almost all the way closed I can then adjust the idle down to about 700rpm (in park) and it runs pretty well.

There are only two vacuum ports/lines on it. Top of the manifold to the fuel pump and the carb to distributor vacuum advance hard line. Neither of these is leaking. The intake manifold fit well when I installed it with new gaskets. The intake manifold does have two thin metal round (1-1 1/4") mushroom caps on the sides - what are they for?

I did connect a vacuum gauge to the line coming from the top of the manifold. It's reading 12-15 when the choke is open at 1100 rpm but reads 20 or a little more with the choke closed and the idle at 700.

I can't find any leaks! Any ideas are welcome

That says its starving it should be around 20 inches.......