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Old 01-22-2018, 02:29 PM   #21
Kohnke Rebabbitting
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: 60615,330th Ave.,Clare, Iowa, 50524
Posts: 1,457
Default Re: Main Bearing Peening

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida View Post
Herm - back to his post, what would cause the babbitt to crumble when peening? Would the overheated "rotten" stuff crumble?
Short answer Mr. Mike, is yes. " IF "
You leave the Babbitt to its own cooling.


Our tinning pot holds 3-1/2 to 4 gallon. These are automatically regulated, an we set the Temp. to 610 to 640. If it would get under 610, the tinning Babbitt would be sluggish to flow, pimply looking, and to cold to pour for a 100% bond, strong bond.

If over 650, your tinning is burnt, and weakened to no bond at all.

That is why those u-Tube Videos showing a Guy with a cutting torch heating a bearing is burning off spots of tinning, and the Babbitt will not be stuck, because there is no hear regulation! It is Temp., Temp., Temp.

The tinning pot Babbitt will let the copper fall to the bottom of the pot, but is nothing to remix.

Now, the pouring pot, we set to 950. At that Temp., the Babbitt does NOT separate. If you run the Temp. over a 1000, which is still workable, but it forms dross much faster, and you are wasting Babbitt.
The reason for 950 in our case is, as soon as you get a ladle full of Babbitt, the Temp. starts dropping, as it can loose 300 degrees in 4 feet, and then you would be pouring Babbitt to cold, and will not get the bond. I am talking Tinned caps, and rods here.

For those using a Pine sliver to check Babbitt Temp., should know that, this method is used on Lead Babbitt only. If used on Tin base Babbitt, it will explode in your hand long before it reaches the Temp. you need to pour.

Herm.
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