[JimNNN]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I went up and checked yesterday and it has flat gaskets rather than the donut. I did exhaust work since I've owned the car, so you think I'd remember that stuff, but...oh well.

I don't know if the heat riser valve (thanks KULTULZ) is working, but I think I'll probably just get a spacer from Macs and call it good, as I hardly ever drive the car in winter.

The riser tube coming from the manifold broke a long time ago...before I bought the car. I put a manual choke on it to replace the automatic thermal choke, but I think I'm going to put an electric choke from Mike's Carb Parts. It's solid state, I think. I put one on my T-Bird and it works pretty slick. The kit has you cap of that tube.




My car was made in late 1960, so I think that's probably the correct casting number on the manifold, based on what you guys say. My main concern is I definitely want the new manifold to connect with existing exhaust system, which is fairly new (single exhaust.)

Did different manifolds have different outlets that came down at different angles? I'm looking at a used manifold that the seller SAYS would work on a '61 Merc., but the prefix on the casting # is "C6......", which, as I understand it, would be for a car from 1966, or thereabouts. It MAY work on my car, but the number is C6AE9430A so I can't know for sure. My car is a "survivor" original, but I'm not so anal about it that casting numbers have to be exact.

I'll look for one of those manuals KULTULZ mentioned.Oh, two more questions:



The seller says the the cylinder head mating surface of the manifold has been resurfaced, which is good. Does the cylinder head exhaust surfaces themselves have to be resurfaced flat?



Also, the there was no exhaust manifold gasket from the factory on my car. Would you put one on when replacing the manifold?