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so, all this jibber-jabber, but no one addressed your main question, which block to look for. i'll take a stab at it. so, your bren most likely came with a 40ish motor, if 24 stud, and some of that time frame are the "tin can" motors that came with tin sleeves in the cyl bores to be replaced instead of boring. after 41 or so i think, we dont see that any more. these are easily identified by what we call "the pencil test". that does not tell if its a tin can or not, just dates the block. the front of the block above the timing cover is fairly vertical, with a horizontal ledge extending to the timing cover, which you can rest a pencil on. the post war blocks, 59a, have a slanted front, pencil falls off. if you have access to the 59a motor thats what i would do, myself. 59 motors have some improvements in the valve angles, and many feel its the best of the era. any motor you buy must be pressure checked and magnafluxed, they are all known for cracking so get that figured out before you stick a bunch of money in it. your military motor would have had an extra port on the rear of the block for an oil cooler and filter that usa civilian motors do not use. the boss is on the block, its just not drilled and tapped. around here we call that the "95%" oil system because really the rear cam bearings will still get oil straight from the pump. google up"95% oil fordbarn" and you will see how its done for when you get to that point. thats enough for now from me, other will chime with additions and corrections i'm sure. so now my turn, do you still have all the side armor ? or is one that was cut down for logging, etc? we need pics here or we dont believe you. you could be a russian agent, they are everywhere these days ya know
