Quote:
Originally Posted by tubman
Unless there's a problem with the block, I'd do the .125 overbore. Even with that, there are probably at least 3 more "clean-up" bores left in the block. After that, it can be sleeved. Think about it; the 14% increase in displacement is over 5%. I would expect that you should be able to see that much difference. It's kinda like when Chevrolet increased the 265 to 283 and you know what that meant.
You are considering putting a modified 59A in a '33 Ford; that makes you a "Hot Rodder". This what we do; look for every bit of HP we can find.
I just saw your last post, which to me makes the decision easy. Unless you are planning to use some pre-war rings, the 3 ring pistons are a "no-brainer", as they will decrease friction, plus provide an increase in displacement. On my last engine, a 258" with a stock stroke and a .125 overbore, I left out the bottom rings after a lot of back and forth here. It was the correct decision.
|
I'll add some more food for thought.
On my 296 ci build, we wanted to try and reduce friction and wear as much as possible. Went with Ross pistons with metric rings. Since the bore went 3 3/8" +.030, the rings were not from Total Seal, but came in a Ross-branded box.
According to Ronnie, they were a little different than Total Seals and one of the rings was tapered even more to reduce the "face".
The motor turns over quite easily with this piston fully loaded in their bores.
This piston/ring set up was not cheap, but I think the extra $300 compared over a set of cast ringed pistons will pay off in the long run. Less wear, less heat, more power, more efficient combustion.
Something to thing about if you are indeed going to put pistons in this motor.