Thread: Timing
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:39 PM   #4
California Travieso
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
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Default Re: Timing

I agree with using Purdy's method; however, it's easier for me to follow when the procedure is broken up as follows:

Purdy Swoft's brake Adjustment Procedure:

Here is how I adjust mine:

I start with the center service brake cross shaft:

I disconnect the service brake rods on the adjustable clevis ends .

I set the pedal rod so that the plunger end is 1/16th of an inch from the inside rear of the center crossmember where it meets the plunger on the brake light switch on the 30-31

I then adjust the clevis on the pedal rod so that the pedal is at the top of its travel and prop it up until you get the service brake rods adjusted and connected .

I then adjust the adjusting wedges at each wheel until there is very slight drag but the wheels will turn fairly freely .

I then adjust and connect the service brake rods so there is no slack where the clevice end connects the brake levers . I pull the front brake levers back to remove all slack .

I then adjust the front service brake rod clevises so that the brake rod pins will JUST enter the clevis and front brake levers .

I then move on to the adjustment and connection of the rear brake rods:

Pull the rear brake levers forward to remove the slack and then adjust the clevices so that the brake pins will just enter . This setup will remove all of the slack in the brake rod connections so that the brakes will be ready to begin activation with the least amount of depression of the brake pedal .

This is only the setup and adjustments . If everything is good with the brake drums and other parts under the drums are in fairly good shape you will have good brakes . I always test mine in a sand or dirt driveway to observe the skid marks and readjust as necessary .

David Serrano
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