[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Sal, I think this is where you and Vince were struggling with the concept of the pilot. The slot had been broken (stripped) on just the one side, so if the pilot on the tool could have indexed into the center of the seat, that would have given the tool something to pivot on instead of the opposite side of the slot (-which was broken.). Interesting about Zenith moving to Abingdon as my shop is about 30 minutes away from there and I never knew they had relocated to there.

Thanks Dudley for the pix and the numbers for those tools. Larry, that is pretty close to what I was looking for.


To the rest that responded, -thank you! I know that some of you responded with some comments questioning what I was thinking/doing, and that is OK but you also need to realize that I am often times in the business of repairing what others have 'fixed'. In this particular case, the wrong seat was used by a previous mechanic, ...so it was not the typical Model-A repair.


I also want to point out (--and challenge others to do the same) that I am in the 'restoration' business and not the 'replacement' business. To me, this is an unfortunate direction in which this hobby has gone over the past decade or so which is likely not good for the hobby itself. People really need to learn how to repair instead of replace.


Since many times we never hear "the rest of the story" here how the project came out, so let me close by telling you how we corrected the problem. The carburetor top was inverted and loosely clamped onto he table of the Mill. Because of the irregular shape of the area at the top of the carburetor, to stabilize that area we sprayed a couple of shots of penetrating oil onto the exterior of the carburetor top (to act as a release agent) and placed a piece of sheetmetal directly underneath on top of the Mill table to form a base. We mixed a handful of Kevlar-stranded body filler and placed it between the sheetmetal and the carburetor area on the opposite side of the seat to form a crib. When it dried, that cribbed the area to hold it while we toe-clamped it and on the manifold flange. I ordered a left-handed end mill which came yesterday and we kept pecking the seat body with the mill until it removed most of the brass of the seat. Finally when it was nearly down to the carburetor top, it loosened by the force of the mill flutes grabbing the seat where we then could finish unscrewing it by hand. Likely the vibrations of the end mill pecking against the surface along with the end of the mill trying to grab the brass is what freed the seat free. Thanks everyone!!


.