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55blacktie · 10-25-2021, 06:19 PM

First of all, make sure you're not trying to install it upside down. Initially, wheels should be off the ground; I used stands and floor jack. Turn wheels to lock and maneuver each end into place, turning wheels in/out, as needed, for additional clearance. Once the sway bar has cleared lower control arms and is lined up, bolt the sway bar to the front cross-member/support at original location. Wheels don't have to be on the ground when bolting to cross-member. Attach end links, but do not completely tighten until the wheels are on the ground. If you can beg, borrow/steal ramps,put front wheels on ramps, level car with stands at the rear, and then tighten end links to specs.

I installed a Hotchkis tubular front bar on my 55 Tbird. Clearance around gravel pan/shield, below bumper, was tight, but it all worked out okay. I seem to recall that the Ford service manual actually says to remove the gravel pan; however, the Hotchkis instructions made no mention of it. In my case, it wasn't necessary, even though the Hotchkis bar is considerably thicker than OEM. Be patient, and you'll get 'er done.

10-25-2021, 06:19 PM	#9
55blacktie Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2020 Posts: 442	Re: front 57 wagon sway bar install First of all, make sure you're not trying to install it upside down. Initially, wheels should be off the ground; I used stands and floor jack. Turn wheels to lock and maneuver each end into place, turning wheels in/out, as needed, for additional clearance. Once the sway bar has cleared lower control arms and is lined up, bolt the sway bar to the front cross-member/support at original location. Wheels don't have to be on the ground when bolting to cross-member. Attach end links, but do not completely tighten until the wheels are on the ground. If you can beg, borrow/steal ramps,put front wheels on ramps, level car with stands at the rear, and then tighten end links to specs. I installed a Hotchkis tubular front bar on my 55 Tbird. Clearance around gravel pan/shield, below bumper, was tight, but it all worked out okay. I seem to recall that the Ford service manual actually says to remove the gravel pan; however, the Hotchkis instructions made no mention of it. In my case, it wasn't necessary, even though the Hotchkis bar is considerably thicker than OEM. Be patient, and you'll get 'er done.