Quote:
Originally Posted by Gold Digger
I used lead washers on all the head bolts. The head that I used was off of a tractor that didn't have a leak problem. I checked the push rod tubes but didn't put pressure on them. I may remove the front tires and see if there is a leak that way. I don't have the tappet cover on yet thinking if the tubes were leaking it would run out in front but if I lower it like you said that would eliminate them. How much pressure and what's a good way to pressurize the head and block? Was thinking of using a model A tube. Still would like to know the best way to use the waterglass.
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If you are talking about Sodium Silicate, the directions for proper useage are on the container, at least these instructions have always been on the bottles I've used.
Essentially, the instructions will start off with ....empty all anti-freeze and rinse system clean water.
Then, start engine and let it get fully warmed up.
Then, pour in substance while engine still running.
Run engine for a short while to allow substance to blend throughout system.
Shut engine off and let substance do its job as engine cools down (hours).
Used properly, this is GOOD stuff , and will most likely take care of your problem.
Here is the idea on what it does its job , when used properly; when any liquid (water/substance) exits the wound(s), AND COMES IN CONTACT WITH AIR, it hardens and builds till sealed.
Note about radiator and substance use; in one case/instance when using Sodium Silicate , I used a very leaky '30 radiator. I knew it leaked pretty good and didn't give that a thought in my goal. Well, that radiator does NOT leak now and has a good flow rate of water thru it.
So, go back to HOW this works and you can deduce what I say and how substance works