Re: Torque Tube Seal
Well, I got the '37 solid race and seal out without damaging the race, and was able to replace with a new seal and original race.
I made a disc out of 12mm plate, 43mm in diameter. Drilled and tapped a 5/8"UNF thread through it's centre. This fitted snuggly in behind the seal and just cleared the shoulder that the seal normally pushes up against.
Cut a slot in the top side of the torque tube just bigger than the disc and dropped it in, wriggled it into place behind the seal. Screwed a 5/8"UNF high tensile threaded rod in from the front of the torque tube, fed the rod through a thick plate across the front of the torque tube and started doing up a nut on the rod.
Tighter, tighter, then bang the race let go and both the seal and race started pulling out of the torque tube.
The new seal and original race were pulled back in by putting a 2 meter threaded rod right through the torque tube using the disc and thick plate in reverse. Required lots of tension on the rod then tap tap tap on the disc, repeat numerous times until the seal and race were home.
Made a patch out of thick panel steel to cover the slot cut in the top of the torque tube.
Mart - No dimple in the torque tube for the later type split race. I guess it hadn't been considered at this stage. Obvious now why Henry changed to the later design.
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