Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveR.
The 3rd engine I had built by a reputable builder I won't name until I've had a chance to talk to him. Cost was about $3,500.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene F
I have over $5,000 in this last one.
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While this is not directed at Steve in his situation, however many people read these posts from the sidelines. Just so we are all 'singing from the same page of the Hymnal', $3,500 really does not buy a quality engine in this day & time. As an engine rebuilder, what I have come to realize is it takes quality machines, -
and a conscientious machinist not willing to cut a corner if the expectation is to produce a quality engine. And I have also learned that quality machinery takes a fist-full of dollars to purchase or restore. Kurt makes a great point above that if you are casting bearings, there are specialty tools that either must be purchased/fabricated, -and then used if there is an expectation of longevity. When you look at old catalogs such as KR Wilson's book, there are many tools they offered that were considered necessary to do the job to original specifications. These tools are rare today and generally fetch big money.
Now granted, there are always those who will say that '
so & so' will build me a short-block for about that money, ...and while I do agree there are some that will, a short-block assembly is really not an engine. It is a portion of an engine. Add in the costs of restoring the peripheral components and the price escalates. Most professional machine shops doing quality work cannot survive on less than $100.00 an hour, -and when all of the steps are tallied in doing a quality rebuild (thermal cleaning, sonic testing, magnafluxing, peening bearings, burnishing bearings, squaring caps, diamond honing with a torque plate, vacuum checking valve seats, checking lifter bores, straightening & peening crankshafts, straightening rods, balancing reciprocating components, etc.) it honestly cannot be done for $3,500, ...so logic says that to meet that price point something(s) must be omitted. How many omitted steps can be done before the engine is no longer considered a quality engine??
My advice to Steve is remove the engine and take it back to the rebuilder, -even if it is outside of the warranty period. Let the rebuilder determine the cause of failure, and possibly the reason for the failure. At that point Steve can determine what is the best option for him regarding his engine.