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revkev6 · 12-13-2017, 03:57 PM

hope you enjoy that weather... I have aunts and uncles talking about the carolinas all the time... but they haven't run from their kids yet lol.

most people recommend you not put the valve gear you have back in. those are 1951-1953 rotator type keepers on the valves. they use a shorter valve spring that has a tendancy to bind up if you run a performance cam... etc. basically they don't make it all the parts for it because they got ditched as soon as you swapped cams. I have no idea how they work with a chevy valve as I haven't ever heard of someone using your combination of parts! what you need to do is grab a set of dividers and check your open and closed spring length. you can then check your spring pressure at the closed length (i used a bathroom scale and a drill press to get an idea) then check for coil bind at your open length.

you have lots of options if that doesn't work out. DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR WITHOUT CHECKING THE SPRINGS!! if you don't have enough pressure the valve will hit the head and pop.

bored and stroked has posted on the HAMB how he does chevy valves.. reds headers sells a kit.

one more question i have is, where did you get the valve springs from?? they don't look like ford units to me. most stock ford springs dont have a pronounced set of coils that are closer together at one end. the lincoln zephyr springs do though.

you may need to pick up some new 49-50 style retainers and some shims depending on what you find when you check the springs.

12-13-2017, 03:57 PM	#121
revkev6 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: western Mass Posts: 365	Re: Rebuilt Flathead Problems. hope you enjoy that weather... I have aunts and uncles talking about the carolinas all the time... but they haven't run from their kids yet lol. most people recommend you not put the valve gear you have back in. those are 1951-1953 rotator type keepers on the valves. they use a shorter valve spring that has a tendancy to bind up if you run a performance cam... etc. basically they don't make it all the parts for it because they got ditched as soon as you swapped cams. I have no idea how they work with a chevy valve as I haven't ever heard of someone using your combination of parts! what you need to do is grab a set of dividers and check your open and closed spring length. you can then check your spring pressure at the closed length (i used a bathroom scale and a drill press to get an idea) then check for coil bind at your open length. you have lots of options if that doesn't work out. DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR WITHOUT CHECKING THE SPRINGS!! if you don't have enough pressure the valve will hit the head and pop. bored and stroked has posted on the HAMB how he does chevy valves.. reds headers sells a kit. one more question i have is, where did you get the valve springs from?? they don't look like ford units to me. most stock ford springs dont have a pronounced set of coils that are closer together at one end. the lincoln zephyr springs do though. you may need to pick up some new 49-50 style retainers and some shims depending on what you find when you check the springs.