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Chad Marchees · 10-21-2019, 04:44 PM

Hello all. To answer a few above questions.

The new balls are sized at .990" as measured with digital calipers. They might be 1" if I broke out the micrometer...but I didn't.

Yes, the ball seat is concaved, as is the plug to accept the ball.

Updraught, there are no backing plates on, or even drums, just a bare spindle and hub.

I tried various angles on the tie rod end to get it on while hitting it with a deadblow hammer. No go. Its as if the cup is being pushed out to far by the spring.

Even though I have said several times the grease fitting was not interfering, I removed it to appease the masses trying to help. The spring has been verified as sitting on the machined surface.

I have talked to Snyders, and they have never heard of the issue but are trying to also work with me on it---I can't ask for anymore than that. Even though I am not totally ruling out the repo parts, I do believe the slight variations in measurements from originals are stacking up, unfortunately against me.

Larry posted and was kind enough to have a phone conversation last night with me and we measured various points together. I am defiantly tight on a few areas with the new parts.

Also as suggested by someone else, I did order the internals from Bratton's to see if there is a difference.

I'll get it figured out sooner or later....even though the solution may not be what I really want. Finding good original ends that don't cost an arm and a leg don't seem to be that easy...unless someone has a set and wants to help.

10-21-2019, 04:44 PM	#28
Chad Marchees Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 35	Re: Help! Tie rod end install Hello all. To answer a few above questions. The new balls are sized at .990" as measured with digital calipers. They might be 1" if I broke out the micrometer...but I didn't. Yes, the ball seat is concaved, as is the plug to accept the ball. Updraught, there are no backing plates on, or even drums, just a bare spindle and hub. I tried various angles on the tie rod end to get it on while hitting it with a deadblow hammer. No go. Its as if the cup is being pushed out to far by the spring. Even though I have said several times the grease fitting was not interfering, I removed it to appease the masses trying to help. The spring has been verified as sitting on the machined surface. I have talked to Snyders, and they have never heard of the issue but are trying to also work with me on it---I can't ask for anymore than that. Even though I am not totally ruling out the repo parts, I do believe the slight variations in measurements from originals are stacking up, unfortunately against me. Larry posted and was kind enough to have a phone conversation last night with me and we measured various points together. I am defiantly tight on a few areas with the new parts. Also as suggested by someone else, I did order the internals from Bratton's to see if there is a difference. I'll get it figured out sooner or later....even though the solution may not be what I really want. Finding good original ends that don't cost an arm and a leg don't seem to be that easy...unless someone has a set and wants to help.