Quote:
Originally Posted by 15max
I agree, Tom. We need more young folks who can see the potential in these old parts. You will get lots of advise here. Mine is If you don't build it the way you like, you are doing it the wrong way. Have fun with it and you may be doing it for 50 years like I have.
Good luck Charlie.
|
That's going to be my new signature if it's okay with you, max. I'm the only kid in my whole school who gives a crap about old cars, an example is the one kid who swears the general Lee charger in the original dukes of hazard, runs a 454 Chevrolet. And he gets really mad if you tell him otherwise.
But, since it's the weekend, I'm planning on doing some simple, easy to do frame lowering mods. I found them on the HAMB, I believe that Mr.modelT used them on his "gowjob" 26 T roadster. He drew up these plans, and I'm going to follow them.
Seems simple enough, although the front spring perch somewhat confuses me. Can anyone decipher it and explain it any better? The rear lowering technique seems simple as breaking down the axle and switching the housings around. I'll do the front flip first, and I'll try to do the rear mod in the heated shop at school. Speaking of school, today in my shop hour I got my mustang steering box opened up and I've begun some creative staring at how I'm going to De-seize the, and please forgive my ignorance here, the roughly butter stick sized slider thing that goes on the spiraled section of the input shaft. I think if I wrap the slider piece in rags, clamp it in the vise and put a crescent wrench across the little tabs on the funky vibration dampened kind of thing that fits onto the splines of the input, and just soak it in kroil and wrench on it. Would that work okay? Or is it to cobbed to work safely? The gears and bearings look okay inside the box too, I think I remember someone saying the mustang box wouldn't work for the T? Why exactly?
Ccd