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Old 09-26-2020, 11:25 AM   #13
dmsfrr
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
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Default Re: 55 Ford Fairlane 12 volt conversion problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by TiGuy55 View Post
Well guys turns out this car has an 8v battery not 12 as i was told. with a newish solenoid and alternator.. ..

so tried to find the blue cable with red to see why the dash lights all the sudden went out. still working on that one.. is there an easier way to get at the wires in the dash. i'm just thin enough to get between the seat and the wheel but once i'm there its a b#tch to get out if i need a tool.

radio has 8volt feed but keeps blowing the fuse..

still need to find dash light bulbs .. oh ya the gas gauge works but not the temp gauge..

instrument cluster lights don't work and the brights don't light up with 6 volt headlights
...
any help with all that would be appreciated..
You still need a wiring diagram as specific to that year & model as you can find.

8 volt batteries were often installed to improve performance of the starter.
A 'slow' or dragging starter may be due to it needing bushings or brushes.
Dirty or corroded battery and starter cable connections and / or a poor Ground connection from the engine to the battery are more common causes.
Undersized replacement battery & starter cables may have been installed over the years and should be replaced. The larger number "1" or "0" gauge cables are needed to meet the current requirements of the 6v starter. (photo 1)
All three of them.

If the radio has the correct size fuse (14 amp) but it blows out, the radio may have internal problems.

Temp gauge: Ground the wire on the Temp sensor terminal and turn the key on, the needle should swing to the opposite side of the dial.
If not...
Check for battery power on the Black/green wire to the Temp gauge when the ign key is in the On/run position.
If there is power, temporarily connect the other gauge terminal (for the Temp sensor) to Ground, the needle should swing to the opposite side of the dial. If it doesn't the gauge is bad.
Also check the wire to the sender for loose or corroded connections.

Brights don't work. The connector on the floor switch may be loose or corroded, along with connections in the junction block on the left front inner fender, or those filaments in the bulbs may be burned out (not as likely but still possible).
Also... clean the Ground wire connection for both headlights. It may be fastened to a mounting screw for each junction block.
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Attached Images
File Type: jpg Battery Cables.jpg (32.8 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg headlight floor switch.jpg (65.0 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg junction block, left front.jpg (48.4 KB, 10 views)

Last edited by dmsfrr; 09-26-2020 at 11:58 AM.
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