[Archie Cheda]

I promised to report what I learned:

Based on many inputs gleaned from other threads on this forum, I decided to also check out the rear motor mounts. The rubber between the rear motor support brackets bolted to the frame and the frame appeared to be hard, weathered, and cracked and new rubber was less than $10 so I ordered the rubber kit for the rear mounts along with a rebuild kit for the front mount. All I really needed was the leather washer, but I was glad to replace the flat (auxiliary) spring as well. I used the new coil springs, but they appeared to be identical to those in the car.

First, I learned a lot about the front mount from an article in the November 1928 Ford Service Bulletin (page 294-6). I will mention a few of the key things I learned from the article which I had not learned from the many hours of reading I have done on this (excellent) forum:

o When properly installed, the leather washer carries no load under static conditions -- it appears that the weight of the engine is primarily carried by the rear mounts and that the front end is supported only by the pair of coil springs. When road conditions cause the frame to flex, the leather washer cushions the initial contact with the flat spring and the single, lower spring limits motion in the other direction. I think that this allows the front of the engine to vibrate in all directions a slight amount, but providing an absolute limit to the possible motion. My noise was clearly the side-to-side motion of the flat spring rubbing on the frame cross-member.

o Quoting: "This is important. If the leather washer is in contact with the flat spring, or if coil springs are closed, one or both of these conditions will absolutely defeat the action of the support."

o There is a "REMARKS" section on page 296, which might be overlooked as it is at the top of a page discussing the single plate clutch. I will quote it in full here:

o Quoting: "If when the rear motor support arms are bolted to the engine the front support does not have 1/64 to 3/64 clearance between leather washer and top of flat spring, loosen the four bolts holding rear support bracket to motor, also loosen the six small bolts which clamp rear support brackets to frame. Next remove nut and spring and washer on lower end of support stud and jack up front end of motor approximately 3/8 inch. With the front end of the motor raised 3/8 inch, tighten the six small bolts which clamp rear support brackets to frame, then tighten the four bolts holding rear support brackets to engine, next lower front end of engine and re-assemble spring, washer and nut. This should provide proper clearance between leather washer and flat spring.

If the lower coil spring is closed and there is excessive clearance between leather washer and top of flat spring, repeat the above operation with the exception that the rear end of the engine is jacked up 3/8 of an inch instead of the front end."

All I can add is that this worked for me, first try on 3/8" at the front. (Your mileage may vary.)

I also will say that new rubber for the rear mount can be installed without removing the engine and without a frame spreader. I already had a "jack" made from a piece of electrical conduit, a piece of threaded rod, and a nut. It was made for a non-automotive job a decade ago and was the right length (by sheer coincidence) to place between the engine and frame. I only applied enough pressure to move the engine about an eighth of an inch. I could then remove all the bolts (2-big & 3-small) and remove the rear support bracket on one side. (On one side the bracket will only slide forward and the other only rearward.) Note that I supported the engine weight with a floor jack under the clutch housing, and the opposite side rear motor mount was always fully bolted up, providing excellent stability. Upon removal of the driver-side rubber & bracket I learned that my rubber was in good shape -- only the edges were hard, weathered, and cracked. I also observed that some welding of cracks had been performed. This lead me to inspect the other bracket which had a 1-1/2" long crack. I proceeded to re-install the driver-side bracket without rubber and proceeded to remove the other bracket for welding. I then installed the other bracket with new rubber, and finished up by installing the rubber on the driver side. The jack was used to alternately push the engine away from the frame on the side being worked on. All in all, this was not a difficult operation.

Once the rear mount was completed, I installed the new front mount parts, following the 3/8" procedure discussed above. I did observe that there was quite a bit of wear between on the frame cross-member where the flat spring had been vibrating for almost 90 years. The Ford Service Bulletin recommends assembly with grease between them, but I opted for a thin piece if bicycle inner tube. If I ever have the engine out again, I will do some welding repair on the cross-member.

P.S.: If you suspect your rubber needs to be replaced, you can remove the three nuts from the three bolts on either side of the car and you can pull off the plate and inspect the rubber on the outside of the frame. (While you are under the car, you can also look for cracks in the rear brackets.)