[tinman080]

My brother-in-law and his buddy built the trunk to start with, and it was brought to me to finish and paint. I live 200 miles west. Anyway the thin plywood used on the top was not deminsionally stable, the layers started separating on the front curve after I painted it the 1st time. I decided to build another lid without curving any plywood. I cut the flat sections from 1/2'' plywood and then cut a 4X4 timber to the rough shape of the upper lid curve and used a air board file to final shape it. The trim moldings were glued, nailed with ringed shank nails, and sealed with Kent Industries autobody seam sealer. A thin skim of body filler to take care of nail holes and woodgrain show-thru and 3 coats of lacquer primer (bonds to wood GREAT). Once dried good (2 days) a good scuffing with red scuff pads and 3 coats of black acrylic enamel with hardener. It was not buffed, but could be if needed. Jon told me he found plans online, and I believe the ones Mike posted here are those same ones. I was fortunate I could copy the external measurements of the first lid. It has been about a year now, no issues. He displays his tool set in the trunk when showing the car. I did paint and body work for 45 years, I usually wind up with family paint projects. lol The trunk was made short enough so the ''Ford'' logo on the tire cover would show. This is NOT a difficult project, I would encourage all of you to try it, if you want a trunk that appears to be metal. Gary P.S. Restoring those license plates was 5 times more work! Pebble grain vinyl top material glued on would be great if you wanted the leather look.