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H. L. Chauvin · 04-20-2013, 07:05 AM

Humble opinion:

1. #12 works every time -- as per *7 -- after "all" else failed.

2. Although a tiny air gap can be created on either the upper or lower side of the head gasket when the engine rotates with plugs installed, (w/combustion or no combustion), many times the rough, rusted studs in the head's rough, rusted bolt holes create most of the subsequent very difficult friction problem for head removal, "especially" after the head has remained on the engine for a longer period of time.

3. When re-installing a head, it is "always" a good idea to first use a tap to first clean the engine block bolt threads, followed by applying something like "Permatex" aluminized Anti-Seize on the threads in the block & on the threads on the "new" head bolts & screw them in by hand. (Re-using cheap, stretched weak head bolts & nuts is about as wise as re-using, ragged broken shoe strings to go to a tuxedo banquet, & can cause unwanted temporary loss of all religious thoughts -- removing one (1) broken Model A head bolt only once is really enough for a lifetime).

4. Next, remove the new bolts, apply Anti-seize to both bolt & block threads again, then install bolts a second time to insure all threads are "well" coated with this anti-seize compound. (Anti-seize on head nut threads is optiional, (even in high humidity areas), if one liberally provides Anti-seize on head bolts).

5. One could be hard headed & try petroleum grease products like in the old days; but after a very long period of time, the volatiles in the grease evaporate with heat, then a thick, caked black substance is left behind which absorbs moisture, & allows rust to form in bolt threads & to form between head bolts & head bolt holes.

6. After a long period of time, after the grease breaks down with time, one finds through experience that the former use of grease as opposed to Anti-seize on head bolts are the reason so many people break head bolts in blocks when head bolts are removed; & after a long period of time, using grease on studs & bolt holes also causes one to use wedges for future head removal.

7. After hand tightening bolts, liberally apply Anti-seize to "all" of the out-side of all head bolts; and, with a Q-tip, liberally apply Anti-seize to "all" bolt holes in the head including the hole in the head for the distributior.

8. The guy who later removes a head protected like this, & the guy who removes the head bolts, & the guy who removes the distributor protected like this will appreciate all of the extra effort; however, with a Model A, the guy who applied the Anti-seize is many times the same guy who will appreciate his own efforts!

9. Above written only to help someone with future, "often" difficult Model A removal of head bolts, heads, & distributors -- minor coolant leaks & high humidity makes head & distributor removal matters worse in a shorter period of time.

04-20-2013, 07:05 AM	#13
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: Need Help...Head is stuck Humble opinion: 1. #12 works every time -- as per *7 -- after "all" else failed. 2. Although a tiny air gap can be created on either the upper or lower side of the head gasket when the engine rotates with plugs installed, (w/combustion or no combustion), many times the rough, rusted studs in the head's rough, rusted bolt holes create most of the subsequent very difficult friction problem for head removal, "especially" after the head has remained on the engine for a longer period of time. 3. When re-installing a head, it is "always" a good idea to first use a tap to first clean the engine block bolt threads, followed by applying something like "Permatex" aluminized Anti-Seize on the threads in the block & on the threads on the "new" head bolts & screw them in by hand. (Re-using cheap, stretched weak head bolts & nuts is about as wise as re-using, ragged broken shoe strings to go to a tuxedo banquet, & can cause unwanted temporary loss of all religious thoughts -- removing one (1) broken Model A head bolt only once is really enough for a lifetime). 4. Next, remove the new bolts, apply Anti-seize to both bolt & block threads again, then install bolts a second time to insure all threads are "well" coated with this anti-seize compound. (Anti-seize on head nut threads is optiional, (even in high humidity areas), if one liberally provides Anti-seize on head bolts). 5. One could be hard headed & try petroleum grease products like in the old days; but after a very long period of time, the volatiles in the grease evaporate with heat, then a thick, caked black substance is left behind which absorbs moisture, & allows rust to form in bolt threads & to form between head bolts & head bolt holes. 6. After a long period of time, after the grease breaks down with time, one finds through experience that the former use of grease as opposed to Anti-seize on head bolts are the reason so many people break head bolts in blocks when head bolts are removed; & after a long period of time, using grease on studs & bolt holes also causes one to use wedges for future head removal. 7. After hand tightening bolts, liberally apply Anti-seize to "all" of the out-side of all head bolts; and, with a Q-tip, liberally apply Anti-seize to "all" bolt holes in the head including the hole in the head for the distributior. 8. The guy who later removes a head protected like this, & the guy who removes the head bolts, & the guy who removes the distributor protected like this will appreciate all of the extra effort; however, with a Model A, the guy who applied the Anti-seize is many times the same guy who will appreciate his own efforts! 9. Above written only to help someone with future, "often" difficult Model A removal of head bolts, heads, & distributors -- minor coolant leaks & high humidity makes head & distributor removal matters worse in a shorter period of time.