[Corley]

I've had numerous requests for more info on using the Honda distributor, so here it is, once again. Credit for this does not go to me, but rather to some guys in the SF Bay area, who have been running these for about 20years.

1978-1981 Honda Civic, and other models used this dizzy, made by Hitachi. It's electronic, and turns CCW, like the model A. It has a centrifugal advance, just like the FSI. The thing it has which FSI does not have, but this Does have, is a vacuum advance. This corrects the overheating issue at idle due to retarded timing which some have when using the FSI diz. It also gives a nice cruise advance.

To make the conversion for use on a model A, some machining must be done to the Honda diz. First, the base diameter needs to be turned down about 0.060", to make it fit the 1" hole in the model head. Then you will want to shorten it to match the model A diz, and also shorten the shaft, and cut a Tang on it. Basically, you make the bottom half of the Honda unit look just like the bottom half of the model A unit.

Since this is electronic, it comes with the electronic unit inside the distributor, and this needs to closely match the coil. I use a 12volt coil with internal resistor. If you meter the primary, you will get something greater than 3 ohms, and less than 5 ohms. Wire it as described in the previous posts. That's it. (This electronic unit is also used by several other cars, including some Nissons, and the 1.9L Chevy S-10. It is Rock solid, and your FLAPs has them in stock.)

I suggest using a NuRex timing tab, which is marked in degrees to set it up. Find and Mark your crank pulley at zero degrees, being as accurate as possible. With the vacuum line not connected, I set mine at about 5 degrees BTDC, because I don't intend to crank it by hand. If you think you might hand crank it, I'd recommend you stick with zero to avoid an arm owee. Run the engine and speed it to around 2k rpm, and with a timing light, you should see about 21 degrees of centrifugal advance. If it's not all in by 2k rpm, you should adjust the springs in the diz. (Lighter springs give sooner advance.). When you connect the vacuum line to manifold vacuum, you will see about 10 degrees of advance. On mine as it is set, this yields 15 degrees at idle, no load, 36 degrees at light cruise, and 26 degrees at cruise under heavier load.

Model A vacuum runs around 20 inches, but drops off pretty quickly after 45 mph, due to the power required to push a flat box through the wind. By 50, you won't have much manifold vacuum left, as your number 12 foot gets near the floor. This is a good thing, as at about 6 inches the vacuum advance drops out, preventing pre ignition. Your engine might be more powerful, and your vacuum results may vary.

You can find these dizzies on fleabay, rebuilt, for $24.99, or at the men's mall, for a similar price. Be sure to look inside, and get the electronic version, as there is also an earlier point version that looks the same from the outside. Grab the wiring connector as well, because we have found no other source for that. I just used some small plug on terminals, but those are fiddly.

It's a bit of work, but very CAMO. (Cheap Ass Model A Owner). (Stolen from the CASO Studebaker guys, and modified to fit.). You won't be disappointed with the results.

Just for fun, I also tried doing the same on an late '70s Olds HEI diz. (Chevy turns the wrong direction.) It's big and ugly, but works a treat, is totally self contained, including coil so is a one wire hookup. On it, the centrifugal advance it way up top, and vacuum cans are available in about any curve you can imagine. Super neat for adjusting, but like I said, big and ugly. (You need to grind off every other pickup point on this, since it was for a v-8. Then, use every other plug wire outlet.)

Note: Pay close attention when machining the Tang, it is not in the center of the shaft!
Note2: The lower bushing can be pushed up when shortening the housing, so don't cut it off.
Note3: Use full manifold vacuum, not ported vacuum, (not that emmisions "ported" one).
Note4: If you think it is wrong to install a non-stock part on your model A, ignore all this and don't do it.