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I was taught a way to do this by a senior member of our club..
After fully inspecting the shoes, pins, springs, actuator pins, wedges, etc we put the a up on blocks and made sure the wheels could spin freely. We then made sure that the brake pedal would travel all the way back to full up, checked for play in the brake shaft and pin.. if all was good, we would wedge the brake pedal up from the floor at full "off"
We then tightened all the brake adjust wedges to full on (about 35 ft lbs of torque tight I'd guess.
We then pulled the brake rods and made sure there was about 10#'s of tension on them at "rest" and adjusted them for length as needed to have just the right amount of tension to pull them back onto the clevis links when reassembling the lines back onto the components
We then reattached the rods and readjusted the wedges (backing off just until you could not hear the brake rubbing)
Once adjusted, run it down a gravel road and hit the brakes.. You should get pretty much all of them to lock.. Adjust the wheels individually until you are having equal drag lines in the dirt left to right and try for about 60% of the slide in the front.
This seems to work really well and I trust my brakes in traffic now ..
-- Dave in Boise