Quote:
Originally Posted by AL in NY
jfreddie, I made an inquiry to Dan Mceachern a couple months ago and he suggested using the rope seal made for the 216 Chevy 6. Here's his answer: "One suggestion that seemed to work well for the 1st 50-60 years of hot rodding an A block was to just use a rope seal like from a 216 Chevrolet 6 cylinder. Fit the rope seal into the groove in the cap and in the aluminum adapter. You will find the grooves too deep to crush the seal properly, but the old time fix was to put a piece of small diameter copper tubing behind the seal material. It takes some futzing around to get it just right, but it worked for many years. After you get the rope seal installed and the cap tight, turn over the crank a few times and remove the cap and crank- the seal surface needs to be burnished or you have not crushed the seal sufficiently. Also- make sure the drain hole and tube is open."
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None of the rope seals are available anymore. I have tried to find them and Fel-Pro has discontinued. The rope seal won't work on a crank that the slinger has been removed for the neoprene seal. To use the rope the slinger was only removed to the same diameter as the thrust ring so it could "bite" into the rope. I replace the slingers all the time and have had a 100% success rate. Mind you, the bearings have to be good and able to clearance correctly.