Quote:
Originally Posted by G_Don
I am curious as to what the best way to cover the crank is while honing the cylinders? Do I just have to cover the bearing surfaces of the crank?
Thanks so much for all the help.
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Do as you like, but IMHO you will do more damage than good trying to hone that in the car with a flex hone. The issue you have is the stones will jump over the galled area (because that aluminum has been hot and is harder now) however the stones will likely remove material on either side. Eventually what you will have is an egg-shaped cylinder. You really need to use a rigid hone in this scenario.
Also, just an FYI, most quality piston manufacturers size their piston to the nominal size, and then grind their piston undersize to account for thermal expansion for the alloy they are manufacturing the piston from. As you mentioned earlier, by you now telling me/us the bores are 3.954+, that tells me that you are tight because the nominal size for an 0.080" piston is going to be a minimum of 3.955. In this situation, I would use a bore dial indicator that is set at zero with the same micrometer that you are measuring the pistons with. That way you will know
exactly what the differential is. Also with a dial bore gauge, you can measure in intervals at 90° from each other and at different heights in the bore. Very probably that someone used a flex hone on it during the rebuild and the walls could be tapered or egg-shaped.
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