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Old 02-13-2024, 02:50 PM   #3
JayJay
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,116
Default Re: Wood storage question

Deco - Most hardwood that you will be able to get, whether plank stock or already machined, should be kiln dried. Therefore, what you need to do is to store it so that it does not re-absorb moisture and warp. That will mean that it should be stored (as mark180 states) clean, flat, dry and well aerated. No real need to move it inside the house, that in fact may work against you as you want the wood to be stored in an environment that is similar to what it will be in use. I store my hardwood planks on the plywood sheets that are on top of the rafter ties in my unheated garage (along with the kids' toys and baby books), and I store sheet stock on edge in a rack. Don't store your wood directly on concrete, it will absorb moisture from the concrete. OK to put a sheet or blanket over it to keep it clean, but don't put plastic because any moisture won't be able to evaporate and may lead to mold/rot.

One thing to be aware of - if you decide to put some dunnage under the wood to enhance air circulation or to get it off concrete, be sure to put enough so that the wood is well supported and doesn't sag under its own weight. Most of the wood in a Briggs body frame (except for the roof rails) is on the order of 2" thick. For dunnage you could use 1x1 or 2x2 framing wood spaced about 12-18" apart for wood that thick. If you buy pre-cut roof rails I'd lay them on their sides flat; if you are storing on concrete put a layer of plywood or chipboard between the rails and the concrete.

Good luck. I got real lucky with my '30 TS and don't have to replace any wood. Some epoxy repair necessary but that's it.
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JayJay
San Francisco Bay Area

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1930 Murray Town Sedan
1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan
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