[GOSFAST]

Hi Mart, first item I would check assuming a deck-mounted bar here, I would recommend somehow mounting a dial indicator on the column down near where the cutter mounts.

Run the cutter head down the cylinder and make absolutely sure you know ahead of time that the column runs "true" the full length of the bore. If not you MUST "shim" the bar on the deck until all is trued up!

When I first started in this business we also had a Van-Norman deck-mounted bar, at the time we "struggled" by with it. Finally upped and bought a Kwik-Way "FN" bar and the boring stand and never looked back. I still have both here today but rarely use either any longer. Just about every block bored here now gets done on the CNC.

The way we do it now we can actually "move" a cylinder if we have to, we look at how it cleans up on a "light" pass and move it ever so slightly if necessary? Generally this isn't needed on a large o'bore, but we've saved a few bores at .040" over, instead having to go .060" or .080".

You want a .002"/.003" press-fit, when we pull/press (we don't "hammer" any sleeves in place) the sleeve in we use Loctite all around it and we do leave a "step" on the bottom. We've also done a few "flanged-top" sleeves, they require a counter-bore at the top of the cylinder.

I would also most likely want to do a sonic test on any sleeved bores before starting, just as a precaution?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. With any deck-mounted bar you don't want to risk making a "new" center-line on an existing hole, you could end up with a totally "crooked" hole at the bottom of the bore, maybe even "break-through"?? (Add) I also have a 1928 (?) Rottler deck-mounted boring bar, 100% manually-operated tool, no "electrics", not practical anymore, but makes for a nice conversation piece today??