Quote:
Originally Posted by jb-ob
Herm,
Who gets the job of humping that 65 pound flywheel on & off the crank flange during the shimming process ?
If from your experience (I don't doubt) that most/all crank flange to flywheel surfaces are no longer factory 'true', why not a fly cut to both ?
(And avoid the hernia surgery.)
jb
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When grinding the rear crank flange, you should have just gotten done grinding, all 3 mains. Then is the time to grind the cranks, rear flange. There will be no better time, that the crank journals, will align with the flange, any better. By using a crank grinder, no set up time, it is already done, and it will do a smoother , more accurate job.
The flywheel, does not have a part to play in setting the flywheel housing. They are set on once, and bolted down, and checked for off center, and then for wobble. The one in pictures shows 0, in 1 full circle. The wobble shows, .001 thousandths, meaning, correction would be .000-50, 1/2 thousandths.
If you grind a crank square, and on center line, and align bore square, set the flywheel housing square, grind the flywheel square, you can eliminate a lot of engine problems.
Herm.