[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Thearne3

Thanks, Brent. I will check the crossbows as you suggest. However, I'm still confused as to what to use to properly support the curved internal portions of the bows and also have something to tack to. My confusion is partially because I'm not sure what was there when made? It looks like the steel started flat and was pounded or formed around curved wood?

The top socket was crimped around a hardwood piece originally. The wood was the structural support for the top, and the surrounding metal was the protector of the wood.

Originally Posted by Thearne3

In the prior restoration it looks like they just stuffed wood fragments into the space and covered with some sort of plastic wood filler. Obviously, that didn't do much for structural support!

Also, I'm not familiar with the Top Socket Reinforcements you reference.

Top Socket Reinforcements was the nomenclature that the Ford engineers used in naming this piece. This is the wood inside of the sockets. Had the intent been solely as a place to tack the pads and top decking to, they would have named it a Tacking Strip.

Originally Posted by Thearne3

Is there any online information on 'proper' restoration?

Unfortunately, there is not any online resource that I am aware of.

I will tell you from personal experience that restoring a 35A/B Phaeton top assembly is a fairly large undertaking if you are going to do it correctly where it folds without binding. To do so, it kinda seems like you need to be able to weld thin sheetmetal, shape blocks of wood, and have the patience of Job in biblical proportions! I am definitely not saying that you can't do it, ...however I am saying be prepared that it really is not just a Saturday afternoon project.

Additionally, you probably need to purchase copies of the factory prints of both the sockets and the roof bows so you can get the measurements correct. I did this some years ago and they are invaluable. I can give you the individual Ford part numbers if you like.

Originally Posted by S2artH

I'm also looking at such a restoration. What I'm seeing as I remove the material in the hollow curves seems like masonite/fiberboard. I'm thinking of using damp strips of masonite, bending and drying them then pressing them down into the hollow of the irons.

Let me start by welcoming you to Fordbarn. I personally would not do them out of Masonite or any soft-wood. Use a hardwood that will have structural integrity. The last thing you want is for the top assembly to break or bind when raising/lowering as it will likely tear the fabric.

The best way we have found is to fixture the socket so it retains the correct curvature (-i.e.: shape) when the wood infrastructure is added. If you do not support the socket before installing the wood, the drying wood will try to distort (straighten) the socket metal. We use ¼" strips of Ash that we have steamed. Then the strip is inserted into the socket once it has been dipped in a water soluble marine glue. The issue you will find is you must work quickly as the glue tends to become sticky as you are trying to push each of the strips into the socket which does not allow the strips to slide amongst themselves. You will also need to deform part of the socket prior to installing the wood and then use heat on the metal to allow it to form around the wood. Once everything has dried and taken set, you may need to put the socket in a press to 'tweak' it back to the factory dimensions.

I put some photos below that kinda shows a little of the process.

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