[larrys40]

Testing is relatively easy if you have a volt ohm meter.
A little understanding first .
The popout cable does two functions :
1. It breaks (opens circuit) the hot 6 volts to the distributor when pushed in.
2. Secondly at the same time it grounds out the hot lead of the points which is part of the theftproof feature . Which is why it is called the theft proof electro lock .

It could be the popoit is having an issue and should be checked first. Remove popout from the distributor. With popout out you should have 6 volts between ground and the end of the popout. You can check this with popout in car but removed from distributor.
If no 6 volts you have an issue with the popout as long as the 6 volts is at he red lead at popout Head . If you have it then push popout switch h in, then you should not have 6vts and with an Ohm meter should have a short between he popout end and the armored cable (ground). If so it is functioning properly.

It is also very probable that when screwing in the popout to the distributor that the lower plate tang shorted to the inner housing or the lower plate to its are loose and allowed the plate to the tab to short . Screwing in the cables can sometime put enough pressure to cause those issues. When rebuilding a distributor I always use a piece of insulating rubber between the housing and lower plate tab so that it doesn’t happen even if someone screws it in too far.

I disagree about the smoke part in a post above as the coil may be charging albeit warming if if that is he case. If either of what I noted above is true you would see reduced voltage at the points .
Use a lot ohm meter and do a little light troubleshooting. I’m confident it is the popout or distributor issue I described.
Larry Shepard