[GOSFAST]

Well almost on the bench anyway? This is for NEW builds only. The method I'll place below here will allow the lifters to be adjusted while out of the unit! It's actually fairly simple and you MAY not even have to touch the adjusters again after it's been assembled (you will need a bit of luck here for this though)?

Each time we assemble one of these Flatheads we try to come up with ANY idea/method that will make the present and future jobs a bit easier.

In order to explain it all clearly I'll post the method in steps here. I would add this also, you will need a dial indicator and some way to hold it steady! I generally use our drill press here. A conventional "magnetic" dial indicator stand (photo below) will work here also, we only use the drill press/Bridgeport because they're handy! (I'll have some photos at the end of the post)

In order for this to be 100% doable you MUST "mock up" the cam/lifters in the block with the t/gear bolted on with just 2 bolts. We use old cam brgs that we've saved to help here! You can actually sand the O.D. on the a front and rear brg and make it a "slip-fit" in to the block!

All the info here will be for 1 cylinder only, you simply repeat it for the others! You don't need any "lube" anywhere at this point, not on the lifters, guides, etc.

1-Place the cam in the block (using old ft/rr cam brgs), bolt the t/gear on the front with 2 screws.
2-Assemble an intake and exhaust valve and guide for 1 cylinder with one of the actual retainers and locks using a "checking spring" to hold it all together. (Photo below)
3-Place a lifter in the bore (remember everything is "dry" still, no oil/no cam lube, makes for easier working)
4-Slide the assembly into it's respective hole with the lifter (you won't even need the guide retainers/horseshoe locks to do this step), now check whether you have a "gap" or the there's no clearance? Chances are it won't be too tight, in the event it is pull the lifter and turn the adjusting nut in?
5-If there's a "gap", measure it using a feeler gauge, write it down, and establish the amount you need (this would be the recommended lash for your cam), subtract the lash from the recorded number, write this down. This (obviously) is the amount you'll need to the "raise" the adjuster to get to that number. (E.G., if you have a "gap" of .030" and you have a required lash setting of .012" you'll need to screw the adjuster OUT exactly .018"?? Next remove the lifter and now you're ready to make the "adjustment" using the dial indicator ON THE BENCH!! (Photo below)
6-After "lengthening" the lifter install all the components on the same cylinder and recheck it again.

--- There is one extremely important item to be mentioned here, when you've finished each individual lifter/guide/valve ass'y be absolutely certain to keep it all marked for the EXACT cylinder, both intake and exhaust, just used for the measuring, DO NOT mix any of the parts at this point! If you do you will have "wasted" some valuable time? ---

The entire 16 assemblies can be checked beforehand in about 1 hour, the end result, you'll find the desired lash will be VERY close to or MAYBE even wind up being "on the money"! We leave an extra "thou" or "two" for the correct spring pressures. If the lash settings do need to be changed it should take no time at all, every one should be very close to the needed number?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. On the left photo you check the "beginning" valve lash, can't see in the photo but the lifters are installed, horseshoe clips for guides not needed here, on the right photo you make the necessary adjustment "on-the-bench" to get your lash after simply removing the lifter temporarily! Reinstall the parts and recheck! Simple!