Originally Posted by Kohnke Rebabbitting
You are right Randall.
Even a rebuilt motor, we always pour 1 gallon, would only need maybe 2 quarts, down the Dist. hole and prime all the oil tubes. Over night that will leak about 2 table spoons on the floor.
If you have to replace any oil tubes, even the one that came out of the cap, the soft plug should always be pulled to replace the pipe, as where ever the pipe stops in the hole, the excess should be cleaned out to the Dia. of the hole, and to check for any other debris.
We also tack, wire weld the pipe to the cap on both sides.
The more clearance you have, has to run out faster, as there is nothing to stop the free flow of the bearing fed oil pipe, and the cap pipe is in the oil and would have somewhat of back pressure compared to the feed pipe, at rest.
On the rear main cap cork that goes around the cap in the groove, some are coming now that are made wrong.
The cork should NOT be a perfect fit in the groove, they do not want to stay put. They should be about .50 thousandths wider then the groove, like the Original, to lazy today to go measure one.
The pan gasket should be put on the BLOCK first with the Black Permatex, and yes, even under the car.
Cut the main cork to size so it fits
Use Black Indian Head Permatex and coat the groove.
With the wide cork, put the side away from you in the groove first, and with a screw driver, medium size short, and push the other side of the gasket in, and it will wedge itself in place, and will stay.
Take care of the front seal area, or check it.
Put a Generous coat of Black Permatex on the pan gasket, and on the Rear main cap cork, and the pan will not leak.
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